Newsletters 1999
Volume 20, Number 4 1998-1999 Edition
Hyde Park Houses: An Enduring Gift Twenty Years Later from Jean F Block
Written by Steven Treffman
Twenty years have passed since The University of Chicago Press published the lace Jean Friedberg Block's groundbreaking Hyde Park Houses: An
Informal History, 1856-1910 in the Fall of 1978. It is as
well, the tenth anniversary of her death.This presents an opportunity to look back at the significance of this book and at Jean Block's life.
When introduced to the public, Hyde Park Houses was characterized by its publisher, on one hand, as a "detailed architectural history of Hyde Park's first fifty years" and, on the other, as "a charming and informative guide to the historical domestic architecture of one of Chicago's oldest
neighborhoods." Thar these are not guire the same things may have reflected some difficulty on the part of this world-class academic press about just how to characterize the book. In fact, it was the first book of its type ever published by the UC Press. The book consists of four distinct sections: first, a general history, with illustrations and maps, of the development and evolution of nineteenth century Hyde Park-Kenwood; second, photographs by Samuel W. Block Jr. of seventy-six houses as they appeared in 1978, accompanied by a contemporary map showing their locations; third, in an appendix, biographical notes on more than forty architects along with listings of their Hyde Park buildings; and fourth, in a second appendix, a checklist of over nine hundred dwellings in Hyde Park and, where known, their architects and the names and occupations of their original owners organized by streets and street numbers. The book concludes with a bibliographic essay that reflects the wide and unusual range of sources she used and remains instructive to this day.
The book, which had a printing of 10,000 copies, was well-received and found wide distribution.
Currently it may be found in at lease fifty-five academic, state, and municipal libraries in Illinois alone and may be found in many major libraries throughout the United States. Several years ago, the Hyde Park Historical Society gave copies of the book to public schools in the community and also maintains a copy in its headguarcer's library. The Blackstone Library catalog lists eight copies in its collection and The University of Chicago's Regenstein Library has copies at several locations.
As a guide to histori chomes in Hyde Park and Kenwood, it was to many a revelation of the rich and accessible architectural history chat existed throughout the community. There simply had never been any publication on Hyde Park quire like it before. Familiar old houses now had names and daces attached to chem: they had their own histories. In addition, for the first time and for an audience beyond local boundaries, a general history of Hyde Park now existed that provided a narrative context not only co the houses but to the community in which they stood. It is chat which transformed Hyde Park Houses from what might otherwise have been viewed only as a guidebook into something more substantial and, as well, historic in its own right.
The publication of Hyde Park Houses in 1978 may be
viewed something of an unofficial proclamation of the end of the great period of urban renewal in Hyde Park. Beginning around 1950, local forces frorri religious institutions, The University of Chicago, community
• organizations and political activists drew together co hale the physical deterioration of the community's housing stock, revitalize its infrastructure and establish a more inclusive and constructive social situation. The long years of economic depression and war had stifled new construction in Hyde Park and a combination of housing shortages, social conflict, discrimination, and population changes appeared co threaten the viability of the entire community. The result, funded in part by federal grants, was the demolition, during the 1950s and 1960s, of large areas of residential and commercial property in Hyde Park and, perhaps co a somewhat lesser extent, in Kenwood.
Visitors to our exhibition of Vi Fogel Uretz' paintings and her slide presentations on urban renewal in Hyde Park at our headquarters in the 1995-96 season could only marvel at the images of sheer physical destruction that she recorded. It was almost as if the ravages of war in distant lands chat had been seen only in newsreels and magazines had somehow, incredibly, been visited upon Hyde Park. While the resulting new development was lauded nationally as a remarkable achievement in urban revitalization through federal and local partnership, the human impact was substantial.
Several hundred small businesses were affected. Many of
them simply closed while ochers scrambled to find new locations in Hyde Park or left the community. Some residents, by choice or by circumstance, found homes elsewhere in Chicago or fled the city entirely and moved co the suburbs.
Forthose HydeParkerswho remained,thoughbuoyedbyhope, idealismand determination, as thesmall shops, grocery stores,restaurants,houses,hotels,apartmentbuildings,houses of worship,theaters,gasstations and garages, eventhepost office andthepolicestationthathadbeen so much a partof thelandscape oftheirlivesdisappeared;theywereleftonlywith memories of what had been. Whether or nor one favored the course and effects of urban renewal, the changes it wrought were, for many people, undeniably painful and, for some, accompanied by a sense of loss chat only mellowed over the years. It is no surprise chat Vi Urecz' talks in 1995 and 1996 were to standing room crowds.
What Jean's book did, in effect, was to celebrate chat portion of Hyde Park-Kenwood that had survived the tumult. That success could be attributed co the combined efforts of a range of community institutions, a mobilized citizenry, enlightened political leadership and investments of large amounts of time, effort and, especially, money, government and private, in the community. Although Jean alludes only briefly to these developments in the preface, an important aspect of the philosophy that propelled Hyde Park's urban renewal effort does make its way into the text. At one point, in describing the emergence of activist
community organizations at the turn of the century, she writes (page 70): "Protection, improvement, betterment-the words imply that the community was less than perfect, and yet they also carry with them the implication that its citizens believed in their own power co affect the physical and moral conditions of life." That underlying subtext, the connection between the long-past and the then-immediate past, spoke co anyone familiar with--or who had lived through Hyde Park history during the third quarter of this century.
Also reflected in the book was the emergence of new attitudes regarding the preservation of older buildings. During the most intense period of urban renewal, postwar modernism dominated new construction design and older buildings were either physically eliminated or cast almost into a fashion shadow. In time, however, the idea of respecting and rehabilitating older housing designs and forms became a compelling value in the minds of many residents and homebuyers. Older homes and apartment buildings, they decided, had an aura and meaning worth nurturing. While this development was not unique to Hyde Park-Kenwood, of course, Hyde Parkers were among chose who played pioneering roles in that process here in Chicago.
Recently, a letter from long-time Hyde Parker Richard Orlikoff appeared in our local newspaper, The Herald (December 9, 1998). In the letter, he claims that the oft-quoted comment about Hyde Park and urban renewal that entertainers Elaine May and Mike Nichols made famous, originally had been his: "Here we stand, black and white, shoulder to shoulder against the poor." Oversimplification or not, the line reminds us that there were winners and losers in the urban renewal process. It does not at all detract from the achievement that Hyde Park Houses represents to note that the houses chat appear within it belonged co many of the winners.
Houses and the HPHS
The idea of a local historical society was not new in Hyde Park but Jean's book played a role in helping to actually establish one. The Old Settler's Club existed for awhile in the early part of this century, apparently until the old settlers were no more. In 1939, on the occasion of the fiftieth anniversary of the annexation of Hyde Park to Chicago, Paul Cornell's niece, Alice Manning Dickey, an active participant in the event, publicly urged establishment of an historical society in the community. World War II and its concerns intervened, however, and the proposal did not progress. The vision was reborn, however, in the mid-1970s by resident Clyde Watkins who engaged Jean and Muriel Beadle in the project at its very earliest stages and then drew other prominent and committed residents into the planning and fundraising that led to t'he founding in 1977 of the Hyde Park Historical Society and its installation in our current headquarters on Lake Park Avenue.
Aside from Jean's personal involvement with the
HPHS, her book presented the tableau of a community whose history was worth remembering and, thus, bolstered the attempt to do so through an actual organization. Sensing the legitimacy and impetus the book would provide their organizing efforts, writers in early issues of the Society's newsletter expressed eager anticipation of the book's publication. After it appeared, the book quickly became the standard history of early Hyde Park and the starting point for anyone interested in studying the development of the community. The society stocked copies for sale to the public. Finally, and this cannot be overstated, the essential work that Jean Block did to produce her book made it possible for others not only to expand upon what she found but to strike out into other areas of research.
If Hyde Park Houses hadn't been written, we might still be bogged down in trying to uncover and connect the materials and details Jean spent at least three years of her life determinedly cracking down. There are local historical societies and community groups elsewhere, both near and distant from Hyde Park, caught in precisely that situation today.
Beyond the local community, Hyde Park Houses found its place in very respectable company. In the book's introduction, the distinguished historian Kenneth T. Jackson placed it within "the new urban history," a still emerging body of literature chat examines local or neighborhood history as a way to understand or illuminate larger issues in the development of
America's cities. The book appeared at a time when "documenting the built environment" was a clarion call among preservatists. Jean was conducting research that almost directly responded to needs articulated in such prominent publications as, for instance, The National Trust for Historical Preservation's America's Forgotten Architecture (New York, 1976). Since then, Hyde Park Houses has earned its way into the footnotes and bibliographies of a wide range of books and articles published by writers not only on local history but, as well, on various aspects of architectural, Chicago, and general urban history. Indeed, its seeming awkwardness, that segmentation of its parts, has provided hooks for researchers coming at topics from varying angles and allowed them to use the book in different ways. This book which, Jackson noted, used "neither the methodology nor the jargon of the academic profession" (something that troubled some professors on the Press' editorial board), has, nonetheless, served that profession-and other intelligent readers-well.
Hyde Park-Kenwood is not an ancestor-worshipping community. When I began to look into its past, I found few letters, diaries, or books annotating or commemorating it. Its first public buildings-the town hall, the churches, the public school, the original Illinois Central stations-have long since disappeared. But we do have the houses. They are the material remains of the early culture of the first fifty years ... They are the tale and signature of the past, unwittingly bequeathed by their owners and builders. Jean Block, in her preface to Hyde Park Houses
Who Was Jean Block?
Jean was identified in the book and accompanying promotional materials only as the president of Midway Editorial Research and a lifelong resident of Hyde Park. Samuel W. BlockJr., the book's contributing photographer, receives only an expression of gratitude for his photographs in Jean's preface, but no direct information about him appears anywhere in the text, on the flyleaf or on any of the promotional material. How much of this reflected Jean's choice or a university publisher's uncertainty about how to present a non academic author, an independent scholar, is difficult to assess. Looking back, however, one can only conclude that it was hardly adequate.
The inner workings of much of Hyde Park's history is women's history in the sense of the leadership, service and commitment women have given to o'ur local educational, charitable, religious, cultural, recreational, business and political history. A major problem in recalling women's history, however, is that so much of it has tended to be carried out quietly, unrecognized, unrecorded and neglected. One of Jean's important contributions in Hyde Park Houses is her documentation of some of the social and cultural activities that women organized and sustained in early Hyde Park-Kenwood history.
Jean Block's life, a life of service, was part of this local history and she was active in a variety of community organizations. She was a board member of The University of Chicago Laboratory School's Parents Association, serving a term as its president, and co edited its newsletter with Ruth Grodzin. She was one the voices in favor of greater democratization within the University Colony Club and actively supported the Hyde Park Neighborhood Club, Hyde Park-Kenwood Community Conference, the Fortnightly Club and International House. She volunteered as a research associate at Regenstein Library. Already noted was her role in the founding of the Hyde Park Historical
Society and its early success. She served not only as one of our early presidents but also organized our archives and negotiated its home at Regenstein Library. She was also a member of K.A.M. Isaiah Israel Congregation.
Since Jean has been described as a more behind the scenes type of person, the full extent of her community involvement-her public life, aside from her publications-has been difficult to document and is here almost certainly incompletely reported. That is a problem not just in Jean's case but, as well, for many other women throughout this community's history who have found or created roles for themselves in the community beyond the family. In that process they have devoted much of their lives to giving texture to our community's history, articulating its moral and ethical issues, and making this neighborhood, through all its years and its changes, a better and more vibrant place in which to live. Rendering that history remains a challenge.
It is instructive to examine Jean Block's life and
family history, not only because it provides some background about her but also because it has a rough similarity to the stories of other accomplished Hyde Park families. There is inspiration, too, because, as one soon learns, Jean was a very sturdy human being. Jean's grandfather on her father's side, Cass Friedberg (1848- 1924), came to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania from Kovnos, Lithuania in 1861 at the age of 13. He outfitted himself as a peddler and worked his way west to Kansas. He opened a successful dry goods store in El Dorado, Kansas in the 1880s, but closed it in 1900 to become president of a wholesale bedding company in Leavenworth, Kansas. In 1875 Cass married Laura Abeles (1853-1882), born in Leavenworth, Kansas to Simon and Amalia Abeles. Cass and Laura Friedberg had three children, one of whom, ultimately Jean's father, was born in 1875 in Chicago and given the name Selig. Later, he would take the last name of Abraham Lincoln's Secretary of War as his first name, Stanton.
Simon Abeles, Jean's great-grandfather on her mother's side, was born in Bohemia in 1817. His father had been a rabbi and his mother the daughter of one.
Simon, literate in both Hebrew and German, had started out as a teacher of Hebrew and the Talmud but in 1837 found employment as craftman of violin strings. He decided to start life anew in the United States, however, and immigrated to St. Louis in 1840. He ultimately settled in Leavenworth, Kansas and became a successful clothing merchant, founder of a bank and real estate investor. He died in 1890. Stanton Freidberg, Sr., Jean's father, grew up in Leavenworth, Kansas, where his family had returned after his birth, and attended its public schools. His higher education began with a year of study at the University of Michigan but, having decided to become a physician, he returned to Chicago in 1893 to attend Rush Medical School from which he graduated in 1897. He became an ear, nose and throat specialist of national reputation. He invented a number of specialized instruments, one of which facilitated the extraction of diaper pins from infant throats and was the first to remove tonsils and adenoids as a measure
to cure diphtheria bacillus carriers. He served and taught at several Chicago hospitals and medical schools including German Hospital, Rush Medical College, Anna W. Durand Hospital, Presbyterian Hospital (its first Jewish physician), and Cook County Hospital. He joined the staff of the latter in 1903, became attending otolaryngologist there by civil service examination in 1906, and was, from 1913 to 1919, chief surgeon in that hospital's department. The year 1906 also marked the date of his marriage to Aline Liebman (1886-1954), the daughter of Louis and Henrietta Liebman of Schreveport, Louisiana where her father was a prosperous merchant. They met while she was visiting relatives in Chicago.
Jean Friedberg--our Jean-was born in Chicago on June 12, 1912 to Stanton and Aline and was the second of three children. She had an older brother, Stanton A.,Jr. (1908-1997), who, as an adult, also became a prominent Chicago otolaryngologist, and a younger sister, Louise Friedberg Strouse (b. 1915 ), who now lives in California.
In 1912 the family resided at 4907 S. Washington Park Court, a short street a block from Grand Boulevard, now King Drive. Dr. Friedberg served as a medical officer during World War I but only eight months after returning to Chicago to resume his practice, he died in 1920, age 45, of a mastoid infection. Jean was eight years old.
During the 1920s, Aline Friedberg and her children lived at 5816 S. Blackstone. Adolf Kramer, Jean's uncle (he was married to Stanton Friedberg, Sr.'s sister Rachel) and founding partner of the real estate firm of Draper and Kramer, provided assistance to Aline and her three children. The children obtained their elementary and secondary education at the Laboratory Schools of The University of Chicago. Jean graduated from Vassar College in 1934, returned to Chicago and taught at the Francis Parker School until her marriage.
On November 7, 1940, Jean married Samuel Westheimer Block, born in St. Joseph, Missouri on February 14, 1911, the son of one of the owners of Block Brothers, a prosperous dry-goods store. Samuel had what could only be termed an elite education and prestigious career, then or now. He graduated from the Worcester (Massachusetts) Academy in 1929, obtained his A.B. from Yale University in 1933 and received
his LLB. fromHarvardUniversity's Law Schoolin1936.He cameto Chicago,was admittedto theIllinoisBar in1936 andjoineda law firmwhichevolved ultimatelyintoJennerandBlock.During World War II, he served as a member of the U.S. Army, rising to the rank of captain. After the war Jean and Samuel made their home at 5719 S. Blackstone.
He became a partner in his law firm in 1948. Throughout his career Samuel was active in pro bono work, particularly in the area of civil rights. In addition to sitting on several corporate boards, he was a board member and officer of the Michael Reese Hospital and Medical Center, the Hyde Park Neighborhood Club, the Faulkner School, and the Community Music Program, sponsors of the Merit Music program. Samuel died suddenly in 1970 at the age of 59. Jean was 58.
In the almost two decades before Hyde Park Houses
appeared, Jean labored at honing her skills as writer. Her work on the Lab School parent's newsletter provided one such opportunity. She also enrolled in The University of Chicago and, in 1963; was awarded a master of arts degree in the Humanities. Jean was then 51. That same year Jean with Ruth Grodzins, Ruth Goetz and Elaine Halperin, formed Midwest Editorial Research. It provided university faculty, graduate students, business and civic leaders and organizations assistance in editing or developing printed materials and speeches. The partnership wound down when some of the partners moved out of town or took other jobs. Jean then turned her attention more directly to architectural research. Jean also took a course on writing while actually working on Hyde Park Houses. That the book, which was published when Jean was 66, is as gracefully written as it is was not an accident.
Samuel W. Block, Jr., the photographer for Hyde Park Houses, was the eldest of Jean and Samuel Block's three children. He was born May 2, 1943 in Dayton, Ohio, where his parents lived briefly. As did his younger sister, Elizabeth, and brother, Michael, he underwent his primary and secondary education at the Laboratory Schools of The University of Chicago. He received a B.A. from Knox College in 1964 and later completed a two year program in photography at Chicago's Columbia College. Described as brilliant even by persons not in the family, Sam was an early student of computer applications for business. During the 1970s he was employed by a large meat refrigeration warehouse company for which he wrote a complex and pioneering spreadsheet program that linked financial, storage and processing variables for management and audit purposes.
Photography,though,remained Samuel'sfirst love.Hiscameraofchoicewasatripod-basedlargeformat4x5" Burke and James (Chicago) View camerathatrequiredphotographicplates(ratherthanrollfilm)andtheuse of a black clothhoodby thephotographer.AlthoughhisseeminglystraightforwardphotographsinHydeParkHousesseemintunewiththe"informal World War II, he served as a member of the U.S. Army, rising to the rank of captain. After the war Jean and Samuel made their home at 5719 S. Blackstone.
He became a partner in his law firm in 1948. Throughout his career Samuel was active in pro bono work, particularly in the area of civil rights. In addition to sitting on several corporate boards, he was a board member and officer of the Michael Reese Hospital and Medical Center, the Hyde Park Neighborhood Club, the Faulkner School, and the Community Music Program, sponsors of the Merit Music program. Samuel died suddenly in 1970 at the age of 59. Jean was 58.
In the almost two decades before Hyde Park Houses
appeared, Jean labored at honing her skills as writer. Her work on the Lab School parent's newsletter provided one such opportunity. She also enrolled in The University of Chicago and, in 1963; was awarded a master of arts degree in the Humanities. Jean was then 51. That same year Jean with Ruth Grodzins, Ruth Goetz and Elaine Halperin, formed Midwest Editorial Research. It provided university faculty, graduate students, business and civic leaders and organizations assistance in editing or developing printed materials and speeches. The partnership wound down when some of the partners moved out of town or took other jobs. Jean then turned her attention more directly to architectural research. Jean also took a course on writing while actually working on Hyde Park Houses. That the book, which was published when Jean was 66, is as gracefully written as it is was not an accident.
Samuel W. Block, Jr., the photographer for Hyde Park Houses, was the eldest of Jean and Samuel Block's three children. He was born May 2, 1943 in Dayton, Ohio, where his parents lived briefly. As did his younger sister, Elizabeth, and brother, Michael, he underwent his primary and secondary education at the Laboratory Schools of The University of Chicago. He received a B.A. from Knox College in 1964 and later completed a two year program in photography at Chicago's Columbia College. Described as brilliant even by persons not in the family, Sam was an early student of computer applications for business. During the 1970s he was employed by a large meat refrigeration warehouse company for which he wrote a complex and pioneering spreadsheet program that linked financial, storage and processing variables for management and audit purposes.
Photography,though,remained Samuel'sfirst love.Hiscameraofchoicewasatripod-basedlargeformat4x5" Burke and James (Chicago) View camerathatrequiredphotographicplates(ratherthanrollfilm)andtheuse of a black clothhoodby thephotographer.AlthoughhisseeminglystraightforwardphotographsinHydeParkHousesseemintunewiththe"informal nature of the book (e.g., some include automobiles parked on the street), in fact, like the rest of Jean's book, the photographs were carefully planned. Samuel and Jean selected times of the year when foliage did not obscure views of the houses and natural lighting could be optimized to help strengthen the images.
During the 1970s, Samuel moved to the Near West side of Chicago where he had purchased a duplex for renovation. On June 11, 1982, as he was alighting from his automobile near his workplace on Pershing Road, he was struck by a passing car and suffered severe head injuries. He lay in a coma for weeks at The University of Chicago hospitals, his mother at his bedside every day. On August 15, he died without ever recovering consciousness. He was 39 years old. The motorist who hit him and fled was never apprehended. Jean was then age 70.
Some of Samuel's Hyde Park House photographs have
appeared in other publications. Four of them may be found in Virginia and Lee McCalester's Field Guide to American Homes (New York, 1984) and another was used for the cover of a novel published in the early 1990s. The negatives for all the House photographs are in our archives at Regenstein Library. His portraits of relatives and friends are treasured by their owners and a series of his photographs of old Wisconsin barns remain in demand. Two views of the family summer home in Wisconsin are still on display at the refrigeration company for which he had worked.
Again, as she had done after her husband's death, Jean found solace in work and produced three important publications, two of them a result of her involvement as a volunteer with Regenstein Library's Special Collections Department preparing catalogs for their exhibits. The first, was The Uses of Gothic: Planning and Building the Campus of the University of Chicago 1892-1932 (1983), a now classic work which is still in print, and Eva Watson Schutze: Chicago Photo Secessionist (1985). The third, an outgrowth of some of her research for Hyde Park Houses, was a chapter entitled "Myron Hunt in the Midwest" in Jay Belloli and others, Myron Hunt 1868-1952: The Search fora Regional Architecture, (Los Angeles, 1984). Jean was 72 when Uses of the Gothic appeared. In the ensuing years Jean focussed on establishing our archives at Regenstein and planning a follow-up to Houses on apartment buildings in Hyde Park that was still in its early stages of development before her death, on June 16, 1988. She was 76. Houses went out of print in 1993 but staff from The University of Chicago Press have told me that the press is considering reissuing it in paperback but not before the year 2000 and then only if they can figure out a financially feasible way to do it.
I regret that Jean and I became acquainted only in
the last year of her life. Despite her physical discomfort caused by illness, she graciously took the time to walk me through the mechanics of organizing the archives and she talked a bit about Hyde Park architecture. She told me, for instance, that, as a rough rule of thumb, the presence of verandas distinguished Hyde Park's 19th Century suburban houses from those built after annexation. I used that idea in the recent exhibit on old Hyde Park hotels to suggest that one purpose of their verandas was to connect architecturally with the older residential setting within which they stood. When we discovered that we were both postcard collectors, for some reason she asked if I had a card depicting the Eleanor Club One on 59th Street, which ultimately became
Breckenridge House. I did not. About a year and half ago, going through a box of postcards at a show, I found an Eleanor Club One view and from sight to thought only an instant passed, "Got it, Jean!"
On the north side of Regenstein Library there is a small parklike enclosure, accessible to the public, which Jean's family sponsored. On the east wall there is a memorial marker: "This garden honors the memory of Jean Friedberg Block 1912-1988" and lists the library's call numbers for her three books. Her ashes were spread upon the grounds of her beloved summer home near Mill Pond, Wisconsin.
Thanks to David Aftandilian, Judith Getzels, Ruth Grodzin, Douglas Mitchell, Grace Mary Rataj, Ann Rothchild, Harold Wolff and, especially, Elizabeth Block for their assistance. Published sources include: Julia Kramer, The House on the Hill: The Story of the Abeles Family of Leavenworth, Kansas (Chicago: 1990); Hyde Park Historical Society Newsletter, Vol. 10, nos. 3-4 (October, 1988); History of Medicine and Surgery and Physicians and Surgeons of Chicago (Chicago, 1922); Who's Who in America Vol. 34 (Chicago, 1966) and various city directories.
Steve Treffman is the Society's archivist and a contributing editor of Hyde Park History.
Volume 21, Number 1 & 2, Spring/Summer 1999
History So Soon? Pioneer Days of the Hyde Park Historical Society
A talk given by ClydeWatkins,a founder of the Society,attheannualmeeting,February20,1999
The title of "founder" is probably undeserved, because it implies an image of some lone and far-sighted character doing things by himself.
That was never the case with us-we were a typical Hyde Park committee from the start. If the organization we celebrate was indeed my idea, I must assume that others had at least considered it long before I ever did. What spurred me to action, however, was the confluence of two forces in my life.
First, in the late 1960s after I was out of college and therefore it was too late to change my major one last time-I began to develop an interest in U.S. history, especially Chicago history, between about 1870 and 1910. Plenty of ochers were ahead of me in that, fortunately, and there is a lot of wonderful literature, plus many enthralling photographs, available for study.
Second, I always had a thing about that great little building. Throughout my undergraduate years at the University, whenever I would pull an "all-nighter" in yet another vain attempt to salvage some term
paper--or worse yet, an entire course-I would inevitably end up around 6:00am savoring the 42 cent special at Steve's Lunch. (For that price you got two eggs, bacon, potatoes, toast and coffee!) I loved the building, and continued to fantasize about what I later learned to call "adaptive reuse." No doubt my first notions were along the lines of a swingin' bachelor pad or the nightclub I yearned co run at that age. But as I matured, I continued to watch the building through its subsequent incarnations and its decline. I knew it was somehow associated with the great Illinois Central Station from the World's Colombian Exposition, but at that point I wasn't exactly sure how, and there was no one to tell me-or so I thought.
By 1974 the building had sunk to the level of a storage shed for the two-wheeled cares they used for
delivering newspapers, and it was clearly headed for ruin.
Coincidentally, Albert Tannler, assistant curator of special collections at Regenstein Library at that time, had just completed the first edition of One in Spirit the pictorial history of the University, and it captivated me, primarily because of its many references to the concurrent development (or disintegration and redevelopment) of the neighborhood. And that was the moment of my epiphany. A local historical society could undertake the research and preservation of its past in context of the ciry of Chicago and the nation. And such an
organization could house itself in my favorite structure (the true identity of which I now appreciated). Let the psycho-historians ponder which was the means and which the end; in my mind the two were linked from the start.
Here are a few dates and events that led to our eventual founding:
ï April/May, 1975.
Tom Jensen, a U-High classmate, and I organized the first public forum to discuss the establishment of a proposed "Hyde Park-Kenwood Hiscorical League." We met at St. Thomas Church and Len Despres was our speaker. (I cannot find the exact date, bur I believe a copy of the flyer from the meeting is already in our archives.)
ï June 24, 1975.
Several of us met at Jean Block's apartment for lunch ro discuss how to get organized and moving. It took a while, as it turned out...
ï January 13, 1976.
A larger formation was hosted by Victoria Ranney in her home.
ï March 22, 1976.
Another planning meeting was hosted by Thelma Dahlberg at her home, followed by yet another in April. These meetings continued throughout the following eight months.
ï June 15, 1976.
My calendar indicates that this was my first meeting with Win Kennedy to discuss acquiring the building.
ï November 8, 1976.
Jean and I called on Muriel Beadle to ask her to become our first president. She agreed on the spot and decreed that the name of the organization would be the Hyde Park Historical society. She hosted our first official board meeting at her home two weeks later on November 22.
January 28, 1978.
The Hyde Park Historical Society received its official charter as an Illinois not-for-profit corporation.
March 27, 1978.
Robert and Lucille Rouse, owners of 5529 South Lake Park, finally signed the bill of sale for the property, for $4,000, after continued and heroic efforts by Len Despres to close the deal. Kennedy, Ryan, Monigal Associates was our agent.
ï February 2, 1979.
Our first lease for the land under our building was signed with the Illinois Central Gulf Railroad - five years at $20 per year.
ï July 20, 1980.
The "Completion Fund," our $45,000 capital campaign to purchase and renovate the headquarters, kicked off on July 4, 1978, initiated by a "Charter Membership" drive for 100 members at $100 each. Encouraged by a $10,000 challenge grant from the Field Foundation of Illinois, the drive was successfully concluded. Jean Block was instrumental in this effort.
ï October 26, 1980.
The Grand Opening of our magnificently renovated and restored new headquarters took place, thanks to Dev Bowly's endless talent, work and sacrifice. We began with a parade down Lake Park Avenue and concluded with speeches that will live forever, assuming anyone remembered to keep notes, which I doubt.
Some of the earliest board members are still serving: Dev Bowly, Carol Bradford, Alta Blakely and Richardson Spofford. Other early members were Ted Anderson, Margaret Fallers, Gary Husted, Muriel Beadle, Jean Block, Berenece Boehm, Randy Holgate, Anita Anderson, Michael Conzen, Rory Shanley Brown, Thelma Dahlberg, Phillis Kelly, Betty Borst, Eleanor Swift, Leon Despres, Charles Beckett, Maggie Bevacqua, Malcolm Collier, Emma Kemp, Gerhardt Laves, John McDermott, and Clyde Watkins.
Papa John Remembered
by Devereaux Bowly, Jr.
When I was a kid at the Lab School and U-High in the 1950s and early 60s, there was a street vendor at 59th and Kenwood. He was called Papa John and sold delicious kosher hoc dogs for 25 or 35 cents. He had a small white painted wooden and glass push care with an antique copper alcohol burner to keep the dogs hoc and the rolls warm and moist.
Papa John was a small man, not five feet tall, who talked little, ocher than to ask what the customer wanted on his or her hot dog. His home base was a tiny brick building, which no longer exists, on the southeast corner of 56th and Lake Park, next to the IC tracks. The building lacer housed Chicken-A-Go-Go, run by Morry and his son, who developed
delicatessens on 55th Street, in Hutchinson Commons and elsewhere. PapaJohn's building should not be confused with the wooden hot dog shack which was located one block east, on the southwest corner of 56th and Stony Island, surrounded by a Yellow Cab dispatch station.
As I remember it, each school day in good weather Papa John, who seemed to me to be in his seventies or eighties, would slowly push his cart over co the Lab School at about 2:30, and stay for a couple of hours before returning. At some point he disappeared without explanation. We would appreciate hearing from anyone who knows more about Papa John.
Renovation of The Powhatan Lobby Wins Paul Cornell Award
The Powhatan is a 23-story residential co-op building, located on the lakefront at 4950 South Chicago Beach Drive in Hyde Park. The building was designed in 1929 by two architects, Robert Degolyer and Charles Morgan, in a thoroughly modern "skyscraper style" reflecting the structure of the building's skeleton beneath. This type of building style and construction is now associated with the "Art Deco" movement chat flourished during the 1920s and 1930s in the United States. The colored spandrel panels on the south and ease sides of the building, along with all of the ornamental features of the Powhatan and the adjacent Narragansett building are the work of the building's co-architect, Charles Morgan, who was an associate of Frank Lloyd Wright. In recent years The Powhatan has been designated an official Chicago Landmark.
Vinci/Hamp was hired by a committee of individuals from the building to repair the original terrazzo floor which had been obsrnred by wall to wall carpeting, concealing its rich auburn colored field bordered with black terrazzo. This work included the repair of cracks in the terrazzo as well as restoring the floor's luster. The existing furnishings and finishes within the lobby space were also re-designed at the same time.
.
Published historic photographs indicate that the lobby of The Powhatan was once a richly ornamented space, later obliterated by a series of remodelings. Investigations within the wall cavity by Ward Miller of Vinci/Hamp Architects, Inc., revealed the presence of original finishes, including pigmented plaster sgraffito mosaics by Morgan. Removal of the walls further revealed the original stepped terrazzo fireplace, fluted pilasters, decorative case-iron grills, and mosaics. All original finishes were repaired and restored in the course of chis project, including the stylized fluted pilasters, the figured walnut paneling and the original color scheme.
Two artists, Ms. Jo Hormmh and Mr. John Phillips of
Chicago ArchitecturalArcs, were hired to clean and remove subsequent layers of paint from the mosaics and to reinventMorgan's original techniques, which facilitated the repair and replacement of missing tiles. The original "stylized geometric" wood and glass entry doors were found by Mr. John Graaman, the building's superintendent, in an attic storage room and were reinstalled. On the east wall above the windows, an air conditioning system was integrated into a reconstructed office, which had been destroyed. All plaster surfaces were repaired or recreated by Luczak Brothers Plastering Company of Chicago.The original silver/gold paint colors with luminous metallic particles were supplied by the CresLice company, a Chicago firm, and applied by Onassis Painting and Decorating Company of Kenilworth.Furniture and carpeting were selected to complement the remaining original furniture pieces.
THE CHICAGO ARCHITECTURE FOUNDATION offers tours
of the city and surrounding areas...
Hyde Park
HPHS board member, Doug Anderson, invites you to walk with him through the University Campus and along the streets of Hyde Park with its houses dating from the 1860s to the 1950s, including the interior of Frank Lloyd Wright's Robie House.
Sundays, 1:30pm
June 20, August 15, October 17
Meet at Rockefeller Chapel, 59th & Woodlawn Cost $8 (CAF members $3)
Jackson Park - 1893 Revisited
A pictorial re-creation of the Fair of 1893 examines how Frederick Law Olmsted transformed marshes and dunes into the beautiful park which is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Also visit Osaka Garden.
Saturdays, 10:30am
August 14, September 25, October 9 Meet at Clarence Darrow Bridge
Cost $5 (CAF members free)
Call Doug Anderson, 773-493-7058, for information
Do you know how many birds live in-or visit-Hyde Park?
On May 8th, the 25th Annual Spring Bird Count for the area of Jackson Park, took place.
This year's report states:
Birds were generally in good numbers ...the total number of species was among the highest ever observed in a day at Jackson Park. Warbler diversity was especially high at 29 species, including several notably scarce species. During the course of a given spring one is lucky to find such species as Prairie, Cerulean, Worm-eating, Kentucky, and Hooded Warblers at all; and seeing all of them in a single day has little precedent.
Observers began at 5:10am at four sites along the lakefront ...Two pre-sunrise finds were a Nighthawk at Promontory Park and a Common Moorhen at 64th Street. The last observation of the day was at 7:20pm-a Worm eating Warbler feeding along the sidewalk at 56th and Harper'
Other highlights included four Great Egrets, the Park's first spring count Snow Goose, 115 Canada Geese, 16
Blue-Grey Gnatcatchers, and even one Tennessee Warbler1 Total number of birds counted: 3,542! To participate in
bird-watching, call Doug Anderson, 493-7058.
MEMO
To: HPHS Members
From: HPHS President, Alice Schlessinger Re: Update on our headquarters repairs
The Society has encountered a number of scmccural problems during the last year. Our roof badly needed replacing and our plumbing connection ro the outside sewer had become clogged with tree roots. Thanks to Devereux Bowly and Bert Benade, our Building Committee, these projects have been successfully completed. The handsome new roof, which is consistent with our 19th Century building, should last for many years. The plumbing obstruction has been removed-a major project which required investigation with a video camera and excavation below the office floor.
Our little headquarters building is ready for you to visit though we still have more work to do. We hope co complete it over the summer months.
Thanks co our members who responded to a single letter with such generosity-over $5,000 has been contributed-and co the University of Chicago which has awarded us a grant of $3,000, we have not had to dig too deeply into our reserve funds to cover the expenses incurred.
We thank the following contriburors to this Special Fund:
Mary S. Allan Ruth & Dick Allen
Douglas C. Anderson Bert Benade
Roland & Helen Bailey Marjorie Benson
Alta Blakely
Mrs. Charles Borst Devereux Bowly
Carol & Jesse Bradford Jim & Jane Comiskey George & Louise Cooley Mr. & Mrs. Paul Cornell Irene & Charles Custer Thelma Dahlberg George & Jackie Davis
Bernard J. Delgiorno
Leon & Marian Despres Dr. & Mrs. Jar! Dyrud Terry P. Ellis
Norah & William Erickson John & Sally Fish
Jay & Iris Frank Edlyn Freerks
Susan & Paul Freehling Roger & Madelon Fross Ethel Goldsmith
Sherry Goodman & Richard Watt Audrey & Ronald Grzywinski Samuel Hair
Chauncey & Edith Harris Albert M. Hayes
Jane & Roger Hildebrand Dorothy Horton
Mary E. Irons
Mr. & Mrs. Richard Jaffe Ruth T. Kaplan
Emile Karafiol Ruth & Gwin Kolb
Mr. & Mrs. Philip Luhmann Inge Maser
Margaret S. Matchett Jane & George Mather Theresa McDermott Louis & Joan Mercuri Janee & David Midgely Harold Moody
Aurelia Moody
Mr. & Mrs. Jay F. Mulberry Ward & Dorothy Perrin
Robert, Rica & Kathleen Picken George W. Placzman
Elizabeth M. Postell
.
Mr.&Mrs.JamesRatcliffe
Hope E. Rhinescine Robert Rigacci
Mr. & Mrs. Edward Rosenheim Mrs. Alice Rubovics
Harriet Rylaarsdam
Alice & Nathan Schlessinger Mr. & Mrs. Robert G. Schloerb Arthur & Carol Schneider Frank & Karen Schneider Mindy A. Schwartz
Kevin Shalla & Vicroria Ferrara Mr. & Mrs. Richardson Spofford Fred & Nikki Stein
Helm uc Strauss
Marcia & Stephen Thomas Dr. Paul W. Tieman
Mr. & Mrs. Stephen A. Treffman Antionette Tyskling
Vi Fogle Uretz
Frank & Betty Wagner Marcin Wallace
Mrs. Margaret Walters Clyde & Cheryl Watkins Mrs. Warner Wick
Kale & Helen Williams Ruch & Quentin Young
UPCOMING EXHIBIT...
THE BOOM YEARS: 1916-1930,
second in our two-part exhibition on Hyde Park's historic hotels, will present views from the second great wave of apartment hotel construction, the period in which much of the architectural landscape of modern Hyde Park took shape. The exhibit is scheduled to open later this summer after repairs to our headquarters are completed. In the meantime, we are still seeking printed materials, menus, photos, or souvenirs of these hotels for this exhibit. We will welcome any items our readers wish to contribute, loan, or allow us to photocopy.
For more information, please call
Steve Treffman at (773) 241-5528.
Volume 21, Number 3 & 4, Winter 1999-2000
On Cable Cars and Lunch Rooms
EARLY STREETCARS IN HYDE PARK
Stephen A. Treffman
ContributingEditor
The articles that appeared in the Spring and Summer, 1997 issues of Hyde Park History on an earlier occupant of the building in which the
Hyde Park Historical Society's headquarters are now housed continue to attract attention. As you may remember, Alta Blakely reported on "Steve's Lunch," a small restaurant run by Greek immigrant Steve Megales that occupied these premises beginning around, it was thought, 1948. A very interesting letter has recently arrived that provides insights into an even earlier period in the history of the building.
The letter, which appears on page 10, is from the granddaughters of Turney Keller, the man who, they report, converted what was a cable car waiting room into other uses. Mary Belle Keller Johnson and Judy Keller Levatino tell us chat, from as early as 1898 until 1952, the building was operated as a short order restaurant by the Keller family. Prior to 1898, they say, the building was used as a warming room for "trolley personnel." When placed within the context of the development of Hyde Park's public transportation systems, this new information adds greatly to our knowledge of the history and uses of our building.
CHICAGO STREET TRANSPORTATION ORIGINS
In the early years of Chicago's history, travel about the city's streets was accomplished on foot, by horseback or by horse and carriage. The latter could be hired with driver by the day or by the mile in cabs called hackneys or hacks. Omni buses, large horse drawn or enclosed wagons with seating for multiple passengers, first appeared on Chicago streets on regular schedules in 1850. The introduction of street rail transportation in the city, however, began nearly 141 years ago when a horse drawn car line began operations on April 25, 1859. It was built by the privately owned Chicago City Railway Company
(CCR), which had been awarded the city's franchise for the South Side of the city. Two other companies held franchises for the city's north and west sides. The CCR cars ran on rails along State Street from Madison
Street to 12th Street (now Roosevelt Road). In the
months following, the company built an extension of the line first to 22nd Street (now Cermak Road), then eastward down 22nd Street to Cottage Grove Avenue and, finally, from Cottage Grove to 31st Street. The immediate goal of these extensions was to provide transportation to the Illinois State Fair, which, in the fall of 1859, was located on land along Cottage Grove. The major advantage of using rails (originally wooden beams wrapped in iron sheetmetal) for hauling wagons with passengers was that the rails provided smoother, more comfortable and faster transportation than could be obtained from wheels rolling over the irregular unpaved roads of the time. Basic street car fares of a nickel a ride were sec by city ordinance in 1859 and kept at that same level until 1919.
The demands and opportunities of population growth and commercial and industrial development in the city and its suburbs encouraged expansion of the CCR. The increase in the number of cars, horses and track owned and maintained by the CCR grew exponentially, as did ridership. In 1859, for example, the company consisted of only four cars and twenty five horses operating at twelve minute intervals on about three miles of track and carried many tens of thousands of passengers a year. Annual ridership rose to 3.5 million only three years later. By 1867 the CCR owned fifty-three cars and 375 horses, employed 198 men and operated over 12. 5 miles of track. The number of passengers that year totaled more than five million. Six years later, in 1873, the CCR was running seventy-five cars and 600 horses operating at four minute intervals on twenty-three miles of track and was transporting at least six million riders a year. Only seven years later, at the end of 1880, the system had more than doubled in size to 46.679 single track miles traversed by a fleet of 292 cars and 1,468 horses. In short, in that twenty year period, from 1859 to 1880, the company experienced growth that involved 15 .6 times more track, 58.7 times more horses, and 73 times more cars carrying many millions of passengers annually!
As the CCR expanded the length of its horse carlines to meet demand, problems of keeping its system coordinated and its costs under control grew apace. The cars and rails, once installed, had long lives and were relatively inexpensive to keep up. Aside from the investment in manpower and supervision, the key variable in the cost of operating the system was the care and feeding of the horses. Although perhaps one or two horses might draw one car, they could only work four or five hours a day. This meant chat shifts of fresh horses had to be kept on hand for each horsecar in order to maintain a twelve or sixteen hour a day schedule. An entire system of men and equipment had to be developed around simply sustaining the horses. Moreover, the horse was relatively slow, not always reliable, susceptible to disease, and, glaringly apparent co one and all, associated with a "residue" on the streets chat raised public health concerns. One horse could produce as much as twenty-two pounds of manure a day. Its required disposal, in fact, actually became an ancillary business undertaking. All in all, then, there were problems associated with a large-scale system of horse drawn passenger cars chat were well recognized fairly early. This didn't mean that the CCR stopped building horse lines, only that its management was open to the idea of finding alternative forms of power to pull its cars. As it happened, Hyde Park would become the focus of the CCR's attention.
HYDE PARK AND ITS STREETCARS
There is more co the early history of streetcars in Hyde Park than cable cars. After the Civil War, the city's horse car lines began to look beyond Chicago's borders for their growth. On March 5, 1867, the Chicago and Calumet Horse and Dummy Railroad Company (CCHDRC), an affiliate of the CCR, was incorporated under Illinois law to establish street rail lines for "cars drawn by horses or cars with engines attached, commonly called dummy engines, for the carrying of passengers." Its focus of service was to be the area of Cook County south of the city's border at 39th Street and ease of State Street, in short, virtually the entire area of the Village of Hyde Park. A year later, in 1868, the Board of Supervisors for the Village of Hyde Park authorized this new CCR affiliate to lay tracks from 39th Street extending south from the CCR's preexisting tracks in Chicago proper.
Implementing this resolution launched the robust
expansion of the CCR in succeeding decades.
HORSE DRAWN CARS
Hyde Park's streetcar system apparently went through two phases prior to the introduction of the cable cars. The first of these, an unexpected finding, was that horse drawn streetcars seem to have run on rails down 55th Street in Hyde Park. A map that dates from chat period (Wright: 1870) specifically identifies a horse car line running down Cottage Grove from 39th Street and then swinging around to 55th Street east to what is now Lake Park Avenue.
This is, however, the only then contemporary source found so far chat suggests that a horse-drawn streetcar rail line ever existed along 55th Street. This line would have been pare of the expansion arising from that 1868 authorizing resolution. The CCR built tracks in Chicago further south primarily along Scace Street and Cottage Grove Avenue to then unstated terminal points. In ensuing years, lines were built on ocher streets both ease and west of Cottage Grove with 47th and 63rd Streets becoming the major ease/west routes to southwest Chicago. All of these new CCR streetcar lines were powered solely by horses. Thus was established the early outlines of the course public transportation would ultimately cake on the South Side of Chicago.
THE STEAM DUMMY
The reference to steam driven rail cars on city streets in the CCHDRC incorporation papers indicate chat replacing horse drawn street cars with an alternative system of motive power was already a possibility in the minds of the CCR's management at least as early as 1867. The usefulness of steam driven technology in manufacturing and, especially, in interurban rail transport was already well established throughout the country. In fact, a steam driven streetcar is said to have operated along Broadway on Chicago's north side as early as 1864. Ac some point after 1867 the CCR and its affiliate decided to introduce them in their system, not in the city itself but in and around Hyde Park. Assuming that a horse drawn line initially ran along Cottage and down 55th Street, this steam dummy would have been the second phase in the development of public streetcar transportation in the community.
While there is no question that steam driven streetcars chugged down Cottage Grove and 55th Street, there remains much that is unclear about their actual history. No picture of one, for example, has yet surfaced. The Hyde Park-Kenwood National Bank published a booklet in 1929 with a photograph purportedly that of Hyde Park's steam dummy.
Research, however, has revealed that the photograph is actually of an engine from an entirely different Chicago streetcar company. While the exact dimensions of the Cottage Grove/Hyde Park steam dummy are not known, information about similar vehicles from that period suggests what the one used in Hyde Park probably was like.
Commonly, to minimize terrorizing horses along the street, these small locomotives were built within frames chat resembled a shortened version of a regular horse drawn trailer. The car would have run on four wheels with probably no more than seven feet from the middle of the front wheels to the middle of the ones in the rear. Likely, it was operated by a two-cycle engine powered by steam from a vertical boiler heated by burning anthracite coal or coke to minimize smoke and soot. The engine carriage was designed ostensibly to muffle the noise of escaping steam and engine operation by means of shielding and roof top steam condensers. It was this latter characteristic, the reduction of noise, as well as the horse car appearance, that provided the underlying meaning to the name "dummy engine," that is, silent or "dumb," as in "unable to speak." These small locomotives pulled no more than one or two passenger trailers along the three miles of stronger steel track installed on Cottage Grove from 39th Street to 55th Street and east to Lake Park Avenue. When not in use, these engines and their trailers were probably stored in a car barn at 38th Street and Cottage, adjacent to the stables where the horses were kept. It is not known how many steam dummies operated on the Hyde Park
line nor how their return runs were accomplished, that is, by reversing gears or being turned on a platform.
Also in question is the date when steam dummies were actually introduced into Hyde Park. Block (1977) offers the date of 1869 for that event and cites as her source Pierce (1940). Pierce, in tutn, makes reference only to the governing legal authorizations and to Weber (1936). Weber, however, fudges on the date by noting those 1868 actions by the Village Board permitting the building of street rails in Hyde Park but not when the actual construction took place. As was earlier suggested, operating on that Cottage Grove/5 5th Street line in 1869 may have been a horse line rather than a steam dummy, two very different forms of power. At another extreme is a photograph from a 1943 collection at the Chicago Historical Society with a caption stating that a steam driven street car began running in Hyde Park in 1881. Indeed, a map dated 1881 in Bluestone (1991) clearly denotes a steam line running down Cottage Grove and turning east at 55th Street to Lake Park but this does not preclude the possibility that steam dummies were running there before 1881. Moreover, this would have been precisely the time that CCR officials were already planning to replace horse cars and steam dummies with cable cars. A more persuasive date emerges from an unpublished street transportation chronology developed in 193 3 now in the collection of the Chicago Transit Authority. It places the introduction of the Hyde Park steam dummy in the year 1874.
This date seems in reasonable accord with the state of Hyde Park's development and the known history of the CCR. It would also fit with the presumption that a horse car line preceded the steam dummy in time. Uncovering more substantial corroborating information in support of any one of these dates remains a challenge.
Usually overlooked in the few references to this steam car is that of the almost 46 miles of Chicago City Railway Company track existing in 1881, only those three miles of track along Cottage and 55th, the Hyde Park line, were used for steam driven streetcars. These steam dummies may have been an attempt by the CCR to compete directly with the Illinois Central's steam locomotives chat ran along the lake. The one-way nickel fare for a streetcar ride was half chat for a commute downtown from 55th Street on the Illinois Central but it was a much slower trip. In addition, these engines may have been considered somewhat more fitting, modern and substantial for
the prestigious community they served. Hyde Park's Trustees, recognizing the mess that accompanied horse drawn streetcars, may even have insisted on steam power. It was also on this portion of the line that the streets were paved with granite to support the heavier rails and engines required by the steam dummy. As a result, these were among the better-paved roads in the city and its suburbs.
Unfortunately, street locomotives produced a good deal more noise than advertised, frightening horses and annoying pedestrians. Worse, for a variety of reasons, street car companies found chat these steam dummy cars proved to be no less expensive to operate than had been the horse cars. CCR managers were spurred to look at another alternative, one being developed in California. The days of the Hyde Park steam dummy engines were numbered. The last one to run its route did so early in 1887.
THE CABLE CAR
In the early 1870s Andrew S. Halladie, a wire manufacturer in California, developed a system wherein passenger cars ran up and down the hilly streets of downtown San Francisco on rails by means of a moving cable buried under the streets. It began operations in 1873 and its success spurred further expansion there throughout the '70s. Chicago City Railway officers, alerted to that success, traveled to San Francisco in 1880 to study its cable system.
Realizing that if a system like that could operate on such variable terrain, it would probably work especially well upon the gentler topography of Chicago. They returned home and Charles B. Holmes, CCR's president, quickly obtained approval of the company's board and Chicago's city council to begin establishing cable car transport along many of the same Chicago streets on which they had run their horse cars.
Construction began in June, 1881 and by January, 1882, the CCR formally introduced cable cars into Chicago's public transportation system, the second such system in the United States. The first trains, usually consisting of a grip car and one or two trailers, ran on the State Street line; a second line was established on Wabash Avenue. These downtown cable cars traveled over a turnaround that went from State Street to Wabash Avenue via Lake Street and
Madison Street, a layout that Hilton (1954) and others have insisted first gave the "Loop" its name not, as is often assumed, the elevated train loop which came later.
The Wabash/Cottage Grove horse car line was converted in 1882 to cable car use from Madison Street to 39th Street. In 1887, the Cottage Grove line was extended from 39th to 67th Street and 55th Street was converted to cable use. In 1890, after the annexation of Hyde Park, the Cottage Grove cable car system was extended south to 71st Street, the building. In fact, there may have been no thought the Midway. The Hyde even given to constructing such a building in the first Park/5 5th Street line was place. It was only after 1890 when it was clear to all renamed the "Jackson that the Columbian Exposition would actually Park." The extended
cakeplaceinJacksonParkchatplansforthe ,lengthoftheCable
building likely were begun. The Court loop proved a
building itself was almost certainly \ • boon in loading and
built, probably by the Illinois '. #>• unloading passengers. On
Central Railroad itself, \ Chicago Day, October 9, during the year prior 1893, the day of the Fair's highest
to the Fair, that is, attendance, crowds of some 500,000
1892-93, when the people practically overwhelmed the system.
embankment and Many young men, dressed in suits, their heads viaducts elevating the topped by bowler hats, happily climbed up on the
railroad's tracks were roofs of the cable cars to make the trip to Jackson Park. being constructed. As a Cable cars and their associated equipment were on result there was a physical prominent display at the World's Fair but the year
separation of the waiting 1893 also marked the moment when electricity had
rooms and ticket selling sites already been recognized as a more efficient and flexible
for IC commuters and cable car form of power for street railways. Despite appearances, passengers. The great old 12th Street IC depot, now cable was on its way out. The initial introduction of demolished, was built at the same time and the red electricity to power Chicago's streetcars in 1893 led to brick and scone used in its construction may have been a progressive dismantling of the cable car system chat similar to chat used in building our headquarters. The finally ended in 1906. The 55th Street/Jackson Park main point here is simply chat the cable loop was not cable line was among the lase to go having served the a result of the opening of the Fair, but the building community for nearly twenty years. Overhead electric itself was. lines were installed and the cables and gears were
Probably the most vulnerable point in the cable car removed. The cable car era ended and the era of the system was the cable itself. The CCR cable consisted trolley car line began in Hyde Park. (The "trolley" is of a hemp core, surrounded by 96 steel wires wound the pulley attached co the pole chat touches and rolls into six strands of 16 wires each. The 1 1/4-inch chick along the electric wire strung above the street.) Cable line, however, was subject to wear and breakage from Court kept its name and electric streetcars and trolley use, age or accident. For example, the approximate life buses followed its loop well into the present century. It of the 10,856 feet long cable line along 55th Street finally was dismantled during the urban renewal era. was 167 days. If the grip were applied incorrectly it It should be noted that the emergence of each
could slice or dangerously damage the cable. When a succeeding street rail technology did not immediately major problem developed in one segment of the cable, preclude the existence of the ones preceding. By 1892, the entire system of which it was a part ground to an for instance, the year before the Fair, the CCR had abrupt hale while repairs were made. Cables were fixed 2,611 horses, almost double the number it had in
by splices made on site or replaced entirely by splicing 1880. Only one-third of the CCR revenues, however, a new line into the existing line, running it was derived from the horse car lines, the remainder completely through the entire system and then coming largely from its cable operations. Electric splicing together the two ends of the new line. lines, as well, were just being introduced. By 1895,
The impact of the cable car line on the economy of Chicago's streets, particularly in the downtown area, Hyde Park was immediate. The Economist (Chicago) for were filled with a melange of streetcars, some powered December 8, 1888 reported: "The development for by horses, others by cables, and still others by business purposes of Fifty-Fifth Streec... has been electricity. Steam also powered trains on the suburban largely due to the cable car line... The prices for commuter lines and, for several years during the mid- property on Fifty-Fifth have risen from $50 to $100 a 1890s, the city's elevated rail lines. This mixture was foot, and over twenty stores are in process of erection finally resolved in favor of electricity as the
on the street." The street's commercial past was set for predominant power source for streetcars by 1906 and the next sixty-five years. the Illinois Central commuter line, by 1926.
During the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893, Horses, moreover, remained a factor on Chicago's cable cars were a major source of transportation for streets. There were an estimated 120,000 horses in millions of visitors. Cable cars offered close access to Chicago in 1895. Though fading rapidly from use
the Fair'sentrancesat57thStreetand,onCottage,ataftertheturnofthecenturyaspowerforcity streetcars and fire engines, they remained important in the city's private transportation system well into the present century for recreational use and for hauling delivery wagons. Some of our readers may still remember the horse drawn wagons in Hyde Park that delivered ice and fresh vegetables to people's homes. A painting at our headquarters portrays an old horse drawn milk wagon that once operated in Hyde Park. The wagon stood abandoned for many years east of the IC tracks at 57ch Street.
IN CLOSING
While the street cable car today is often viewed merely as a quaint relic of the past, the scuff of charm bracelets, toys, advertising gimmicks and assorted other memorabilia usually associated with San Francisco, it has a quite legitimate and notable role in American, Chicago and, certainly, Hyde Park history. The story of the cable car in Chicago is most obviously tied to the evolution of public transportation and residential, industrial and commercial development in the city, in general, and to Hyde Park and its nearby suburban neighbors, in particular, both before and after annexation. Moreover, it provided the public access to the South Park system and may well have been a factor in establishing some of its boundaries. In essence, the horse-drawn and later the cable car performed the same function for these areas that the Illinois Central Railroad commuter line had played initially in the emergence of Hyde Park. Indeed, together the two spurred the growth of Hyde Park
and the South Side generally throughout that century and beyond.
Chicago has often been referred to as a city of neighborhoods. In earlier periods in Chicago's history, one of the things that helped define chose neighborhoods was the streetcar lines. The unintended effect, however, was, to a certain degree, their influence on the emergence and reinforcement of artificial social, ethnic and racial boundaries. The "other" side of the tracks was given a new, big city twist that could evoke social conflict, at times bitter or even violent. On the ocher hand, the elaboration of the public transportation system opened up to Chicagoans new opportunities not only for better physical mobility but also for enhanced residential, investment, employment and recreational choices as well.
The extension of public street and rail transportation in and around Hyde Park had an impact on the question of the annexation of Hyde Park to Chicago. It had the effect of drawing Hyde Park and its population closer to Chicago, both in a temporal and economic sense, while at the same time enabling the emergence of multiple centers of political, social and economic interests outside of Hyde Park Center. Each new line established, each new set of tracks laid, was yet another direct link between the city and villagers of Greater Hyde Park.
The political power that had been wielded by the pioneers in Hyde Park Center (who opposed annexation) was diluted in the face of population increases and the emergence of new and powerful economic and political interests elsewhere in the suburb. As a result, annexation proponents would claim that the old style of governance was outmoded and simply inadequate to the new situation. One may also speculate that the concentration of more advanced street transport in che northern section of Hyde Park contributed to a sense of deprivation expressed by citizens in the southern portions of the village. It is no surprise that when the annexation question was put to the voters of Hyde Park Village in 1887 and 1889, the voting majority chat decided the issue in favor of annexation came largely from the wards outside the old center of Hyde Park.
The cable car waiting room on Lake Park apparently directly served the transit system for less than a decade, perhaps as few as five years, if our correspondents' date for its conversion into a lunch room, 1898, is correct. The months of the Fair, then, would have been the peak period of its connections to the cable cars. In that sense, the building is a genuine artifact of both the Columbian Exposition and of the Cable Car era.
The building was located near the Illinois Central stops at 55th and 57th Streets, the Cable Court streetcars and the hotels and small shops along Lake Park and 55th and 57th Streets, all of which generated considerable sidewalk traffic. This location provided the logic for its more than half-century of existence as a lunch room. It became a working man's cafe that served large portions to customers at a reasonable price. The demise of the building's use as a lunch room probably was as much a function of residential and commercial changes occurring in Hyde Park as it was sheer obsolescence of the facility as an eatery.
Ownership of the building remained with the Illinois Central Railroad until it was sold to our Society in 1977.
There is something wonderfully resonant, perhaps
even ironic, that this working man's building has become the home of an historical society for a community driven by issues and conflicts generated both by elitist aspirations and social diversity. This same transaction, however, has practical consequences in the present as our Society seeks to respond effectively to the reality and complexity of our community's history.
Finally, assembly lines were offshoots of cable car technology as are ski lifts. A less obvious connection can be drawn between cable cars and another then contemporaneous technological development: the elevator. They had similar components such as cables, pulleys, gears, and rails and, originally, both were run by steam powered engines. The cable car operated horizontally while the elevator ran vertically.
Although cable driven street cars disappeared as a major urban transportation system, the related technology embodied by the elevator continued to power and be shaped by the emergence of new techniques for the construction of taller buildings for offices, commerce and residential living. The skyscraper, in general, and, particularly in HydePark, the large apartment hotel, were two of its results... but that is another story.
Steve Treffman is our Society's archivist and is preparing another exhibition on Hyde Park's hotels for display at 01,r headquarters later this year.
Thanks to the staff from the Chicago Transit Authority for its assistance.
Selected Sources:
Jean Block, Hyde Park Houses, (Chicago, 1977). Daniel
M. Bluestone, Constructing Chicago, (New Haven, 1991). George W. Hilton, "Cable Railways of Chicago," Bulletin Number 10, (Chicago: Electric Railway Historical Society, 1954). George W. Hilton, The Cable Car in America, (San Diego, 1982). James D. Johnson, A Century of Chicago Streetcars, 1858-1958, (Wheaton, Illinois, 1964). Alan R. Lind, Chicago Surface Lines: An Illmtrated History, 3rd edition, (Park Forest, Illinois, 1986). Milo Roy Maltbie, ed. The Street Railways of Chicago, (Chicago, 1901). John A. Miller, Fares Please/, (New York, 1941). Samuel W. Norton, Chicago Traction: A History Legislative and Political, (Chicago, 1907). Bessie Louise Pierce, A History of Chicago, Vol. 2, (New York, 1940). Frank Rowsome, Jr., Trolley Car Treasury, (New York, 1956). Harry Perkins Weber, comp., Outline History of Chicago Traction, (Chicago, 1936). John H. White, Jr., "Steam in the Streets: The Grice and Long Dummy," Technology and Cttlture Vol. 27 (1986), pp. 106-9. John
S. Wright, Chicago: Past, Present, Future, (Chicago: Board of Trade: 1868, Second edition, 1870).
Letter to the Editor
To Whom It May Concern:
In 1898, our grandfather, Turney Keller, opened the "Lunchroom" at 5529 Lake Avenue, which is now the Hyde Park Historical Society. (Ed. note: Lake Avenue was renamed Lake Park Avenue on April 14, 1913.) With the help of his two sons, Hosey (Harvey) and Charles Keller, the restaurant was continuously in operation until 1952. (Ed. note: One of the interviewees for the earlier articles thought that the restaurant had changed hands in 1948.)
Our grandfather with the help of his sons, leased the building for the entire time. We have no idea how much money was involved. He did have an accident on a trolley losing one arm, not two legs. (Ed. note: One of our correspondents in our earlier article had speculated that the IC had leased the building to Mr. Keller at no cost because he had lost two legs in a railroad accident.)
Before 1898, the building was used as a warming house for trolley personnel. The men gathered around the old pot belly stove and, we're sure, told some great stories. The notion that some food could be served came to our grandfather in 1898.
When our grandfather died in 1922, the boys, known as the Keller Brothers, took over the "Lunchroom." Their wives, Louetta and Marsha, also worked in the restaurant.
At the crack of dawn, breakfast was served. We can still remember the many aromas of home cooking.
Bacon and eggs and oatmeal in the morning and if you looked at the wall one could see the specials for lunch, such as vegetable soup and meat loaf. There were no printed menus. The clientele was an integrated mixture of working males in Hyde Park. The counter was in two sections seating about twelve.
Our families spent many long hours making the "Lunchroom" very successful. The information above is correct according to documented papers from this time period. We have included various pictures for a visual remembrance of the times.
Sincerely,
Mary Bell Keller Johnson and Judy Keller Levantino
Ms. Johnson, the daughter of Harvey Ketler, in a phone interview, told us that the lunch room was closed evenings and on Sundays. She herself was born at her family's residence on the 54th block of Harper Avenue. Turney's family was Christian Scientist and probably was a member of the 10th Church of Christ Scientist at 57th and Blackstone, now the vacant St. Stephen's Church. Ms. Levantino, her cousin, is the daughter of Charles Ketler. -S.A.T.
PROPRIETORS OF THE "LUNCH ROOM" AT 5529 S. LAKE PARK AVENUE
Postcard view c.1915 from the Keller family collection.
From left: Turney Keller and his two sons Charles, and Hosey (Harvey), the eldest of the two. Note the wooden plank sidewalk in front of the building. Turney lost his left arm in a trolley accident. Members of the family are buried in Oakwoods Cemetery.
This Newsletter is published by the Hyde Park Historical Society, a not-for-profit organization founded in 1975 to record, preserve, and promote public interest in the history of Hyde Park. Its headquarters, located in an 1893 restored cable car station at 5529 South Lake Park Avenue, houses local exhibits. It is open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays from 2 until 4pm.
Telephone: HYJ-1893
President..... Alice Schlessinger
Editor......... Theresa McDermott
Designer..... Nickie Sage McDermott
Regular membership: $15 per year, contributor: $25, sponsor: $50, benefactor: $100
Newsletters 1997
Steve’s Lunch Headquarters History
Steve’s Lunch Diner
Volume 19 Number 1
From the late 1940’s to 1965 the Hyde Park Historical Society’s headquarters was the Steven’s Lunch Diner
As told to Alta Blakely by Steve's grandson, GregThorson
In about 1948 or '49 Steve Megales, my grandpa, acquired the business at 5529 South
Lake Park; that is, he owned the furnishings but never the building, which we think remained the property of the Illinois Central Railroad.
Although he was Greek, he served more traditional American bacon and eggs and pancakes for breakfast, franks and hamburgers at lunchtime.
From his third-floor walk-up apartment at 1535 East 55th Street, near Cornell Avenue, under the I.C. tracks and around the corner from the cafe, he and his wife Rose would come to open the restaurant at 4:30 in the morning, serving breakfast, then lunch, and closing at about three in the afternoon. Sometimes he would stay to prepare food for the following day, especially a beef stew or a pot roast or a ham. Standing all day was hard on his feet.
Tables for customers were small. There were perhaps four, each used for two or three people, to the right of the double doors as they entered, perhaps one or two tables to the left.
The counter was in the middle of the room, running about half or two-thirds the length of the building, starting from the south end. Then, just north of it, was the cash register, where Steve's second wife, Rose, presided. (She also had an interest in fortune-telling.) Steve did the cooking behind the counter, along the east wall, next to the railroad tracks, where there was a stovepipe and a chimney for the oven and grill. In the small north room Steve kept supplies, money,and perhaps a small bed. A washroom that end.
I remember visiting my "Papuli" (as Steve signed his cards to Greg) with my mother when I was about five, watching him in his tall chefs hat, flipping eggs. Breakfast with two eggs was thirty-five cents. I used to sit on the call counter stool, next to the first stool in the row. I liked to play "bus driver" with that first counter stool, turning it this way and rhar--ofren even spinning it nearly off its post!
Steve had a good business. Many University of Chicago students were his customers. If they had almost no money to pay, he would say, "That's okay. You just go and be the best doctor or lawyer you can be."
SergeantEarl Jackson, of the Chicago Police Department, was a customer who also became a good friend. He called Steve "Pops." He
would often stop in his squad car. I remember his telling me that he said to my grandpa, "Hey, you dirty Greek, when are you going to wash that apron?" or "What do you have under that hat, Pops::>" One early morning Sgt. Jackson saw two men preparing to attack Steve. They were in a black car waiting. Sgt.
Jackson and a fellow cop rook them in.
Many trains went by "Steve's Lunch" (officially, Steven's) in those days-the City of New Orleans, the City of Miami, the Seminole, the Carolina Special, the Panama Limited, Michigan Central and the "Big Four" (Chicago, Cleveland, Cincinnati and Sr. Louis). All roared by on the embankment overhead, as well as South Shore and South Bend commuter trains and Illinois Central local electric trains.
Toward the end of my grampa's Hyde Park "Steve's Lunch" days, he was diagnosed as a diabetic, and he began to look for a buyer for his business.
By 1963,he had purchased a house in the town of Knox,Indiana, in Stark County, about two hours drive from Chicago. However, he still had the apartment on East55th Street and was still working in the restaurant while looking for a buyer. By1963"Steven'sLunch"was mostly open only on weekdays, and he andRose went to their Indiana home on weekends.(Wherever they were, I remember they never wanted to miss the Ed Sullivan Show onTV onSunday evenings.) My grampa had probably sold the business by sometime in1966--perhaps to a Hyde Parker called "PapaJoe"or"PapaJohn”.
Megales (Steve) had come from Klessura in southwestern Greece in 1915. He stayed in Kansas City for a while, sponsored by a cousin. He was a "gandy dancer" (track worker) on the "Frisco" Railroad. He worked in Warren, Ohio in 1916 and then came to Chicago where he had relatives.
My mother, Olga Lambropoulos, was his first wife, whom he married in 1923. That year he bought a home in the Hegwisch community near 130th Street on the far south side. He worked for Republic Steel, in South Chicago, at the open-hearth.
During all the years, from about 1927 to 1953, he was sending money to family members back in Greece--during the Depression probably $25 a month, later more. Bue the nine-month strike in 1937, with the disagreements between the A.F. of L. and the CIO were very hard on our family.
We had the first telephone in the area (our phone number was South Chicago 9590).We were responsible for twelve families at the steelmill. The phone might ring at midnight, the mill telling us they wanted so-and-so to come in and work. We had to get up and go to tell them.
Our Hegewisch home became like a little Hull House. Relatives kept coming from Greece. As they did, we children would have to give up our beds and sleep on the floor until the relatives were able to find work and move out. From the 1930s there were never fewer than seven people in our home. We had a goat, a cow, lambs and chickens. My mother did lots of canning.
In the late 1950s Steve sponsored his brother Harry (Aristedes), who had been a Marine soldier in Greece during World War II, to come to the U.S. In Hyde Park Steve taught him the restaurant business. Harry, in turn, sponsored his eight children and the family of his sister Constantina Apostolou.
Harry's children and Constantina's all worked in Harry's large restaurant in Humboldt Park (The Parkside) that he bought after Steve retired. Harry taught his sons and nephews the restaurant business well. Now they own prosperous restaurants in Chicago, Niles, Burbank, and Lombard. John Apostolou owns or franchises the Giordano's
Restaurants and Pizzerias-in Indiana; Milwaukee, Wisconsin; Kissemmee, Florida (near Disney World); and thirty-five in Illinois; he is corporate president of Giordano's. All of these young men have become wealthy.
When Steve Megales retired to Knox, Indiana, he had little money. But he was happy; he had helped his family to a fine legacy. He died January 30, 1969.
Editor's note:
Mrs. Donald Robert Erickson (Cathy) was liaison for these interviews, thus making this story possible.
We welcome our readers' additions to the history of 5529. For example, was there a restaurant on the premises before 1948 or '49? Dev Bowly remembers a rather widely held story that Steve was given the business by a railroad as compensation for a railroad-related injury, but Greg Thorson and his mother say this is not so. Who remembers the history of the property after 1966? Please address replies to Alta Blakely or Theresa McDermott, Hyde Park Historical Society, 5529 S. Lake Park Ave., Chicago 60637.
Robie House Becomes Historic House Museum
As you know, the Frederick C. Robie House-Frank Lloyd Wright's Prairie masterpiece has been leased to the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio Foundation and the National Trust for Historic Preservation by the University of Chicago so that it can be restored and operated as a historic house museum.
Considered an architectural masterpiece, this quintessential Prairie house features sweeping horizontal planes, dramatic cantilevers and long ribbons of art glass windows. Neighbors were shocked by its revolutionary design in 1910, but more than 80 years later the building remains a cornerstone of modern functional form.
Robie House was commissioned by Frederick Carleton Robie, a young bicycle manufacturer, whose interest in cars led Wright to build him one of the first three-car attached garages in the world. The house remained a private residence until 1962 when it was acquired by the Chicago Theological Seminary, which used the building as a dormitory and dining hall for students, but was mainly interested in re-developing the site.
In 1941, learning that the house was to be demolished, Wright led a campaign to save the building. In 1957, the 90-year-old Wright led another successful battle for its preservation. In 1963, Robie House was donated to the University of Chicago and designated a National Historic Landmark; it was subsequently used to house the University's Office of Alumnae Relations.
The Foundation will undertake a comprehensive restoration of the Robie House, provide regular tours of the building, and offer a number of educational programs related to Wright and the Robie House. Presently tours are offered daily at noon; visitors can purchase tickets at the main entrance on Woodlawn. Adults $8. Seniors (65 +) and Youth (7-14) $6. For tour information, call 708-848-1978.
The Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio
Announces Volunteer Training for Robie House
Applicants are being accepted for the third Robie House interpreter training program which begins on
May 31. This intensive course will meet for three consecutive Sarurdays-May 31,June 7, and June 14-from 9am until 12 noon, and on Thursday,June 5, from 7 to 9pm.
If you are interested in sharing with visitors from around the world one of the country's most historic structures-Wright himself called it" the cornerstone of modern architecture"-you are encouraged to register.
You will learn about Wright's life and work through slide presentations, in-depth tours of the home and outside reading, while examining the principals of successful architectural interpretation. For more information or to register, call Robie House Operations Manager Janet Van Delft, at 773-834-1362.
A promotional flyer
featuring "Sky Eyes" that
probably dates from the 1940s or early 50s has recently been donated to our archives by Helene E. Brewer, a long time Hyde Park resident now living in Connecticut. Sky Eyes, pictured here, is described as an accomplished singer and lecturer on Native American spirituality with references from such diverse groups as the Executives Club of Chicago, the Ottawa Illinois Home bureau, the Pure Milk Association, and the Commonwealth Club of Greenwood, Mississippi!! The brochure lists an address at 5321 South Cornell. If any of our readers has more information about Sky Eyes, we would be delighted to include it in a future newsletter.
Mrs. Brewer, once owner of the Hyde Park florist in the Del Prado Hotel, was active in the south side Zonta organization and in the Hyde Park Business and Professional Association. Among her other gifts to us are a Zonta membership list from the early 1950s, a copy of the 1962 HPBPA annual program and director's list, and several items related to the Chicago Osteopathic Hospital, where her late husband, Dr.
Darl Brewer, D.O., was affiliated and where Mrs. Brewer also served a term as director of volunteers.
These materials have considerable potential for researchers into our community's history. We are very grateful for Mr. Brewer's gifts as well as for similar donations: from Alta Blakely-the 1959 annual report of the Hyde Park YMCA; from Roberta Siegel and Joan Dix various editions of the Hyde Park High School's "Aichpes" dating from the 30s and early 40s; and from Frances Guterbock-decades of programs and membership records from the Hyde Park Music Club.
When you come upon similar bits of Hyde Park History, please consider giving them to the Society.
Historical Happenings...
Did you get to our Annual Meeting?
We were royally entertained at our annual meeting on February 22nd when members of the Gilbert and Sullivan Society, led by those inimitable G & S practitioners, Bob Ashenhurst and Roland Bailey, presented selections from The Sorcerer.
It was a delightful performance and the Society is very grateful to all members of the cast: Roland and Helen Bailey, David Currie,...
This year's meeting was dedicated to the memory of John McDermott who had passed away during the summer. John was a long-time friend of the Society having served on the Board of Directors for several years and as MC at our annual meetings since their inception.
Our Paul Cornell Awards this year went to:
Andre W. Carus, Owner, and John Thorpe, Architect, for the renovation of the Cams house at 5537 S. University.
Wilbert Hasbrouck, Architect, for the renovation of the bridge at 59th and South Shore Drive.
The University of Chicago, Owner, for the exterior renovation of the commercial building at 57th and Kenwood.
Congratulations Awardees!
On-going exhibit at HPHS Headquarters:
The 57th Street Art Fair: Fifty Years
Be sure to stop at HPHS Headquarters co see the wonderful display of 50 years of our Hyde Park Art Fair. At a special presentation on May 4th, John Parker helped us remember some of those early days. In a video interview we heard of the very beginnings from Mary Louise Womer, founder of the Art Fair. The 1997 Fair is coming up on the weekend of June 7-8; it might be even more interesting to you if you have delved a little into the history of this very special Hyde Park event.
From the
Hyde Park Herald
of Yesteryear:
WANTED: A good boy to learn the printer's trade. He must have a fair English edu-cation, must live at home, with his parents, relatives or guardian. He must leave smoking, chewing, drinking liquor and beer, as well as swearing, entirely with the editor. Such a boy will find a situation at the office of the HYDE PARK HERALD, where he will be taught the entire business so that he may be able to do any and every part of the work, on a newspa-per or in a job office.
All debts due to the Hyde Park Publishing Company must be paid at once. We pay as we go; now come and settle up every mother's son of you.
Friday, November 25, 1887
An explosion which gutted the house and upset the neighborhood
► occurred on West 55th St. last night. The affair brought to light a custard pie factory which had evidently been
► operating for some time under the innocent guise of a gambling house, its true purpose unsuspected by the authorities. Federal agents who were quickly on the scene in search of evidence confiscated four rolling pins and a pie-board.
October 13, 1922
Volume 19, Number 2-3
Steve Lunch: Part II By Alta Blakely
At the end of our story "Steve's Lunch" in the Spring/Summer issue of Hyde Park History,
we asked our readers, if they could, to expand on the history of our HPHS headquarters building at 5529 Lake Park. We have had some gratifying responses. The first came from Richard Kadlec of Kokomo, Indiana, who told us about the restaurant that was here before Steve Margalis's "Lunch." (See his letter on page 3.) This clears up the long standing mystery about what restauranteur was given the concession because of physical injuries sustained while working on the Illinois Central Railroad. Three others provided us with more details on Steve's Lunch.
Sidney Ervin Williams, former HPHS Board member (who in 1974 ran for alderman of the Fifth Ward) was the first to respond: In the early 1960s I was a student at Brete Harte Elementary School at 56th and Stony Island. A lot of tmcks stopped at Steve's. There were trucks with Michigan and Indiana license plates-steel trucks, coal trucks, lumber trucks. Early in the morning they'd even be double-parked in front of Steve's. (Those were the days before power steering. so you'd see these truck drivers with their enonnous arrm.)
There was more than one phone at Steve's at that time,
so these men would stop in-perhaps headed to 39th Street the other side of the Dan Ryan-to phone their final destinations. They would call, "I'm at Steve's Lunch. I'm coming on in."
The cops from the police station at 53rd and Lake Park were also regular mstorners. They would get right out of their police cars and go in for morning coffee.
I seem to remember that there were three or four small sheds on the side ,south of the building. maybe for keeping coal or refrigerating milk; there wasn't much room inside. Actually, I have two or three pieces of the original benches from the building, from the time it was the cable car station. I got them from Betty Meyer, a neighbor of ours who lived at 5325 South Dorchester. They are of oak, rounded on one edge, almost two inches thick. There's a total of maybe nine feet.
You should go down to 57th Street and talk to the man at the barber shop. His name might be Pete. Or to the man at the shoe repair shop. His name might be Nick. They'd remember Steve and Rosie.
In the cool of the morning on July 24th, I trekked down to 57th street, first to the University Barber Shop at 5700 South Harper. It turned out that Pete Macknicki, the Polish one-time owner, had died many years ago, but Frank Parisi had lots of memories:
Yes, Pete sold the shop to Floyd Arnold in 1952. It used to be at 1453 East 57th. I came to work for Floyd in 1955, then bought the shop in '67. I sold it to that man at the first chair, but I continue to work here.
Sure I remember Steve and Rosie. Everybody ate there.
For lunch there would be corned beef and cabbage, pot roast, stews. The portions were so big, I got up to 150 pounds. One of the customers would say, "Rosie, take it easy on the potatoes." She'd say, "If we give you too much, go eat somewhere else." Or a man would say, "Please Rosie, not such a big piece of pie." Rosie would answer, "If you don't want such a big piece, go to Walgreens.'"
Rosie had trouble with her legs. They were almost always wrapped One time an ambulance had to come to get her. Maybe a burst vein or something.
Our next stop was at the Hyde Park Shoe Rebuilder, at 1451 E. 57th. Outside we found "Gus" (Constantinos) Lukis sitting on a stool. We went into the shop:
Sure, I remember Steve's Lunch. My uncle and I would buy breakfast there almost every morning when we came to work. My uncle, John Richards, used to have the shoe repair shop on the north side of 55th near Blackstone.
Hanlin's Drug Store was on the corner, then the shoe shop, then Jewell Foods. Well, yes, I know that John Richards doesn't sound like a Greek name. He was John Psihitsas until he fought in France in World War I.
But he opened the shoe repair shop in 1914. When the buildings along 55th were all torn down during Urban Renewal, he moved the business down here to 57th Street. The family was living at 5440 Dorchester. My uncle and I would go by Steve's and pick up breakfast and bring it on down to the shop. There wasn't very much room at Steve's.
Rosie was a character. She'd tell you right out what she thought. She was the talker. Steve didn't say too much.
When my two boys were taking accordion lessons, Rosie was taking lessons too, from the same Italian teacher. (The man in that picture that you called a worker in the
restaurant - I don't think he was a worker. It was always just Steve and Rosie.)
The food at Steve's was delicious. For breakfast there'd be bacon and eggs, potatoes, fried onions, toast, tomatoes, omelet. There was beef stew or liver and onions for lunch.
When Steve wanted to retire, he sold the business and moved to Indiana. One of the policemen who'd been a mstomer and friend-named Johnny - used to go out to Indiana sometimes to visit with Steve and Rosie.
I don't remember the name of the new owner.No, "PapaJoe"or "Papa John" doesn't ring abell.But he only lasted about two months. The food wasn't the same. And you've got to joke with the customers.He just didn't have the personality that Steve and Rosie had.
Looking Back
In response to Alta's request for more information on the history of HPHS headquarters...
By Sidney E. Williams
Many people have long forgotten how raucously bustling the pre-Urban Renewal thoroughfares of Hyde Park were. Both Lake Park Avenue and 55th Street were lively major commercial strips, teeming with loud pedestrian, trolley and vehicular traffic until late into the night. Street life was quite intense. Commercial and residential population density on the business strips was high even by today's standards.
At that time Hyde Park was still largely a blue collar, working-class community. Lake Park Avenue and 55th Street were mostly the domain of workingmen. You may remember that one of the continual arguments that Julian Levi made to advance Urban Renewal was the fact that there were over fifty (50) bars on 55th Street and Lake Park Avenue. Those bars served mainly the working-class elements.
Not only were there many bars meeting the drinking needs of workingmen, but there were a host of eateries catering to their food needs. Steve's Lunch was the one that mostly served the early-morning trucker/ livery crowd I also remember newspaper, milk and laundry delivery men along with assorted other professional drivers stopping there.
You may remember that south of the cab stand at 56th and Stony was a hot dog shack called Ed's Lunch. Next to Ed's was the Gateway Garage which also had within it a Sinclair gas station. (That building still stands.) Gateway, along with abo11t three other large garages on Lake Park, housed the many limousines and private cars that serviced Hyde Park's lakefront "Gold Coast." Chauffeurs, car jockeys and mechanics from Gateway, Hyde Park Chevrolet, and neighboring garages all used to frequent Steve's Lunch.
And a letter from Richard Kadlec
of Kokomo Indiana:
Dear Ms. Blakely:
I enjoyed reading about Steve's Lunch in Hyde Park History. Here is some additional information. Prior to Steve's, another restaurant was in the same location. It was run by two brothers and one of their wives. One brother was named Harv. Their father was an IC employee who lost both of his legs in an accident. For this reason, from the end of the thirties, the IC let them use the building rent-free.
This information is all hearsay. It is mostly based on the recollections of my cousin, Earl Koukol. My father and Earl had garages (Kadlec's Auto Service) at 5422 Lake Park from 1936 until they moved in1943. Their new location was on Harper, 2 doors north of Cable court. The business remained there until Urban Renewal. They often ate breakfast at the "Hole in the Wall" restaurant: thirty-five cents for large servings of hash browned potatoes, bacon, eggs, and oatmeal.
I lived at 5436 Dorchester from 1936 to 1951 and look forward to receiving each new edition of Hyde Park History. Keep up the good work.
Sincerely, Richard Kadlec
National Landmark Skeet Shooters Clubhouse Comes Down Devereux Bowly's Letter to the Hyde Park Herald, March 5, 1997, explains how it happened.
To the editor:
On February 18 the Chicago Park District demolished the Skeet Shooters Clubhouse at 68th Street and the lake, in South Shore Cultural Center Park (formerly South Shore Country Club). The building was on the National Register of Historic Places, and was demolished without a permit, without regard to the city's Lakefront Protection Ordinance, and without a public hearing. I and others spent years trying to convince the Park
District to preserve the building, which was the little gem of the South side lake front. The second evening after the demolition I went to take a last look at the pile of rubble which had been the building, but was turned away by a security guard. It is ironic that for a decade the Park District declined to protect the building from vandals but posted a guard there after its demolition.
Signed: Devereux Bowly
Rose Garden on Wooded Island...
11the garden Chicago inherited from the World's Fair''
from The Chicago Tribune, June 20, 1901
With a wealth of roses which has made it famous in late years, Wooded Island in Jackson Park now offers its annual display for the inspection of the public. Thousands of roses of many hues and filling the air with their fragrance, have opened their petals at this popular flower garden, presenting a picture excelling those of previous years. But they are not the only flowers. Great bunches of many colored iris-purple, yellow, and blue in combinations, yellow poppies and lemon lilles combine to produce many fine effects in the hedged inclosure that is the especial pride of Head Gardner Fred Kanst.
Washington Park as described by Charles Dudley Warner in his article "Studies of the Great West-Chicago" in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, May 1888
Washington Park, with a slightly rolling surface and beautiful landscape gardening, has not only fine driveways, but a splendid road set apart for horsemen. This is a dirt road, always well sprinkled, and the equestrian has a chance besides of a gallop over springy turf. Water is now so abundantly provided that this park is kept green in the driest season. From anywhere in the south side one may mount his horse or enter his carriage for a turn of fifteen or twenty miles on what is equivalent to a country road, that is to say, an English country road. Of the effect of this facility on social life I shall have occasion to speak. On the lake side of Washingotn Park are the grounds of the Washington Park Racing Club, with a splendid track, and stables and other facilities which, I am told, exceed anything in the country of the kind. The dub-house itself is very handsome and commodious, is open to the members and their families summer and winter, and makes a favorite rendezvous for that part of society which shares its privileges. Besides its large dining and dancing halls, it has elegant apartments set apart for ladies. In winter its hospitable rooms and big wood fires are very attractive after a zero drive.
Dear Hyde Park Historical Society Members and Friends:
The fourth quarter of 1997 is almost here and your Historical Society, like most other organizations, will be closing its books for 1997. We want to take this opportunity to thank you for your interest, attendance at our events and for your financial support. Our members are both loyal and generous.
As you are aware, our Historical Society pays all operating expenses from membership dues. We have an annual budget of just over $5000 and currently our dues meet these expenses. I am happy to advise that we do have a balanced budget and no debt. On the other hand, we have very little excess cash for ernergencies, planned maintenance or restoration. At the present time we are looking forward to replacing our roof, tuckpointing and limestone restoration on the front facade. We expect approximately $20,000 in expenses over the next 3 years.
May I ask for some special favors from you?
• Encourage friends and relatives to become members ( or give them a holiday gift membership).
•Bea Contributor, Sponsor or Benefactor at renewal time.
• If your employer has a matching gift program, please submit our name.
• Remember us in your will.
We wish to thank everyone for such genero11,s contributions during 1997. We have listed them so that you too can thank them.
Just a reminder that renewal time is drawing near for 1998 membership. Please help 11,s to keep Hyde Park History alive.
Sincerely,
Tom Pavelec, President
General
Patricia Collette
Gayle Janowitz
Nancy Rosenbacher
Membership
Alex Coutts
Sheridan A Jansen
Mr. & Mrs. Edward Rosenheim
Khazan & Joan Agrawal
Thelma Dahlberg
Elsa L. Johnson
Dr. Wallace Rusterholtz
Estrella Alamar
Ida B. DePencier
Richard Kadlec
Riyo Sato
Jane Teresa Alayu
Bernard J. DelGiorno
Margaret & Winston Kennedy
Daniel & Mary Schlessinger
Robert & Deborah Aliber
Erl & Milly Dordal
Fred & Mary Beth Kopko
Mr. & Mrs. Robert Schloerb
Rita & Dick Allen
Yaffa Claire Draznin
Mr. & Mrs. Eugene Krell
Arthur & Carol Schneider
Anita Anderson
Jori & Rose Dyrud
William Kruskal
Lillian H. Schwartz
Douglas Anderson
Peter & Janice Elliot
Sue B. Latham
Kevin Shalla & Victoria Ferrera
Linnea 0. Anderson
Terry P. Ellis
Carol Lefevre
Soubretta Skyles
Mark Ashin
Mrs. Morton B. Epstein
Howard F. Lewis
Mrs. Richard L. Stevens
Roland & Helen Bailey
Bill & Nora Erikson
Eileen Libby
William B. Stone
Lawrence W. Bay
David & Joyce Feuer
Allen County Public Library
Mr. & Mrs. Edward G. Stroble
Bert Benade
John & Sally Fish
Delphine Lutes
Mrs. King C. Stutzman
Carol Benade
Sue & Paul Freehling
Inge Maser
David & Linda Tartof
Marjorie Benson
Edlyn Freerks
Jane & George Mather
Florence Teegarden
Mrs Edwin A Bergman
Roger & Madelon Fross
Georgie Maynard
Jane Noyes Thain
Beatrice Blackiston
Judith Getzels
Janet & David Midgely
Antoinette Tyskling
Alta M. Blakely
Ethel & Julian Goldsmith
Aurelia Moody
Vi Fogle Uretz
Sophie Bloom
Margaret H. Grant & Family
Bob & Shabron Newton
Frank & Betty Wagner
Berence A. Boehm
Audrey & Ronald Grzywinski
Ward & Dorothy Perrin
Martin Wallace
Patrick Bova
Nancy Harlan
George W. Platzman
Margaret Walters
Devereux Bowly
Chaucy & Edith Harris
Elizabeth Postell
Mr. & Mrs. Clyde Watkins
Carol & Jesse Bradford
Kiyo Hashimoto
Mr. & Mrs. James Ratcliffe
Conrad Wennerberg
Edward A Campbell
Sr. Rosemary Hollerich, OP
Miriam Reitz
Mrs. Warner Wick
Judy & Cedric Chernik
Eugene & Imogene Huffine
Robert J. Rigacci
Kale & Helen Williams
Eva Cohen
Mr. & Mrs. Richard Jaffe
Dolores M. Rix
Mildred J. Williams
Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio Foundation
Contributors
Mary S. Allen Robert Ashenhurst Oswelda Badal
Jim & Jane Comisky
Irene & .Charles Custer Leon & Marion Despres Margaret C. Fallers Frances & James Flood Jane & Roger Hildebrand Knox C. Hill
Dorothy & Emile Karafiol Stella & Margaret Keck Margaret S. Matchett Margaret S. Meyer
Hans & Katherine Morsbach Mr. & Mrs. Jay Mulberry Marion Pendelton Obenhaus Robert, Rita & Kitty Picken Clemens & Judith Roothaan Alice Rubovits
Margaret R. Sagers
Alice & Nathan Schlessinger Frank & Karen Schneider Fred & Nikki Stein
Mrs. Gustavus F. Swift Harold Weinstein
Ruth & Quentin Young
Sponsors Spenser & Lesley Bloch Dorothy & David Crabb Mr. & Mrs. Edward Levi
Mrs. John A. McDermott Tom & Georgene Pavelec Harriet Rylaarsdam Diane & Louis Silverman Constance M. Thorson
Benefactor
James B. Stronks
Special Bequests
Jean Block Foundation
Volume 19, Number 4
HPHS Headquarters Building Becomes Less Endangered by Alta Blakely
Board members are breathing sighs of relief now that the shoring up of the Metra embankment behind our building has been completed.
Bert Benade, Board member in charge of the physical plant, had been particularly concerned that the embankment had been pushing on our roof and gutter on the east side. About sixteen years ago the Illinois Central Railroad had shored up the embankment, but the job had been done with only wood pilings-and those not driven deeply enough into the ground. They have continued to rot away. Devereaux Bowly, co-chair with Bert on the physical plant, had been after the railroad, now Metra, for about four years to replace the rotting pilings. Work was begun last October. For many weeks a large truck crane (and a Port-o-Let) stood on the street in front of headquarters, dwarfing it in size. (The construction work meant that the October 19th program on Robie House had to be postponed.)
The large sign south of Headquarters proclaims that this
"HydeParkRetainingWallRehabilitation"isa"Federal TransitAdministration Project... sponsored bythe NortheasternIllinois Regional Commuter R.A.CorporationD/BIA Metra the U.S. Department ofTransport; and the Regional Transportation Authority(RTA)." It is "Federal Project No. IL-03-0194, RTAProgramNo.CRD-034.}
On one mid-week day in October, when a Board member was entering headquarters, two of the construction crew members asked if they could look around inside. Bob Pritchard, of Hickory Hills, whose job it was to run the air compressor was excited by what he saw. Later, when Bea Blackiston was on duty on Sunday, November 2nd, Mr. Pritchard came in and carefully removed all our pictures off the walls and gently and neatly laid them on a table. He was afraid that the vibrations from his air compressor would shake the pictures off the walls and shatter the glass. "I like things old to be preserved," he said. (The Board, at its November meeting, asked Secretary Margaret Matchett to send him a letter of thanks, which she has subsequently done.)
Thanks to Mr. Pritchard, we were able to contact Harenfra Namgrola of the Sumit Construction Company of Skokie, in charge of the project. He told us that the work on the embankment behind our building amounted to the sum of $150,000. They had been allowed sixty-five working days for the job; however, he said, they finished in far less time. The final phase, the cement work, was laid during Thanksgiving week. The question in our minds has been whether or not this job was part of the larger Hyde Park Retaining-Wall Rehabilitation, --including the Metra embankment from 47th to 57th Street. Mr. Margrola seemed to think not.
Looking our from the windows on the east side of headquarters one dark evening, Dev. Bowly was delighted: "There's a foot of space between the embankment and our roof! I can see the stars!" !
Follow Up:
The Shooting Lodge
The feature on the South Shore Country Club's Shooting Club in our last issue brought forth some relevant material sent to us by Leon Despres. The area where the Country Club was built, around 71st Street and Lake Michigan, was once considered a hunter's paradise said to be virtually unique along the lake shore. Immense flocks of migrating pigeons flew past along with jacksnipe, plover, wild duck and Canadian brant.
When the Club was built in 1906, a small shack was built to accommodate shot gun enthusiasts among its members. A wooden cottage replaced it in 1908 but was razed eight years later for construction of the more permanent and stylish brick "shooting lodge" illustrated in our Fall, 1997-, issue. Reflecting the site's link to an earlier era, the walls of the lodge were hung with antlers, stuffed animal heads and similar trophies. Club members, however, confined themselves to trap shooting, targeting only clay pigeons. This activity lasted until quite late in the history of the club.
Mayor Harold Washington, 1922-1987 On the Tenth Anniversary of his Death
by Stephen Treffman
These political pins from our archival collection date from the triumphant 1983
and 1987 mayoral campaigns of the late Mayor Harold Washington. Mayor
Washington, the only sitting mayor of Chicago ever
resident in the community of Hyde Park, made his home in Apartment 66 of the Hampton House Condominium, 5300 South Shore Drive. Across from that building is Hyde Park's oldest park, established by Paul Cornell, Hyde Park's founder. Originally called East End Park, it was renamed in memory of the late Mayor after his death. Washington had a very substantial and enthusiastic base of supporters from our community's diverse racial, social and economic groups. A number of persons from Hyde Park-Kenwood were recruited into high level administrative, advisory and policy-making roles in city government during his administration.
One of Harold Washington's essential characteristics was his capacity to reach out and engage persons and groups not necessarily considered part of the historic political mainstream but whose goals and principles intersected at some point practically or symbolically with his. It should not be surprising, then, that among his last official acts before his sudden death on November 25, 1987, was a proclamation issued on November 18 declaring November 21 "Oliver Law
andAbrahamLincolnBrigadeDayinChicago."The letter,reproducedonthenextpage,waspublishedinthe program for a 50th Anniversary memorial
celebration of the Brigade held that day in Chicago.
In 193 7, three thousand Americans calling themselves the Abraham Lincoln Brigade (ALB) volunteered to join an international force in defense of Spain's elected government against insurgent Fascist forces militarily supported by Hitler's Germany and Mussolini's Italy. Two hundred of the volunteers came from Chicago, including at least one long-time Hyde Park resident, the late Milton Cohen (1915-1996?), and an African-American by the name of Oliver Law (born c.1900).
Law was one of some one hundred black Americans to join the ABL. He had served six years as a private in the segregated U.S. Army during and after World War I. He then moved to Chicago where he worked as a stevedore, cab driver and small restaurant manager. With the onset of the Depression he was attracted to various organizing efforts among the unemployed in Chicago, ultimately joining the Communist Party and leading public protests of Italy's invasion of Ethiopia. He left with the Brigade for Spain in January, 1937. His previous military experience and demonstrated valor in battle led to his appointment as commander of an ALB battalion made up mostly of white Americans, the historic symbolism of which he was fully aware and to which Washington alludes in his proclamation. On July 9, nearly six months after his arrival in Spain, Law was mortally wounded while leading his forces in a battle near the town of Brunete.
Eight hundred ALB volunteers died in the Spanish conflict. Although many surviving ALB volunteers went on to serve with the American armed forces in World War II, they were deemed suspect by the U. S. government duri,ng and after the war for having been "premature" in their enthusiastic antifascism and, in some cases, their real or supposed radical ideological and political commitments.
It is difficult, if not impossible, to imagine any post-war Chicago mayor before Washington, himself a World War II veteran, issuing such a letter. The proclamation reflects some of the profound values and aspirations that characterized Harold
Washington and made his administration so unusual in Chicago history.
OFFICE OF THE MAYOR
CITY OF CHICAGO
HAROLD WASHINGTON
MAYOR
P R O C L A M A T I O N
WHEREAS, this year marks the 50th Anniversary of the entrance of the Abraham Lincoln Brigade as volunteers in defense of democracy in the Spanish Civil War; and
WHEREAS, over 200 Chicagoans joined this international movement to stop the spread of fascism; and
WHEREAS, Oliver Law, a leader of movements for relief of t-h---ec---p"'o=or crm:t eor pu-litical rights for Bracks and working people in Chicago in the early 1930's, was a commander in the Abraham Lincoln Brigade, thus becoming the first Black American to lead an integrated military force in the history of the United States; and
WHEREAS, the long-neglected historical significance of Oliver Law is being recognized in a program on November 21, 1987, sponsored by the Veterans of the Abraham Lincoln Brigade and the 50th Anniversary Committee, which will honor the continuing legacy of international solidarity represented by Oliver Law and the Abraham Lincoln Brigade:
NOW, THEREFORE, I, Harold Washington, Mayor of the City of Chicago, do hereby proclaim November 21, 1987, to be OLIVER LAW AND ABRAHAM LINCOLN BRIGADE DAY IN CHICAGO and urge
all citizens to be cognizant of the special events arranged for this time and the importance of this history. Dated this day of November, 1987
Sources: Peter N. Carroll, The Odyssey of the Abraham Lincoln Brigade: Americans in the Spanish Civil War, Stanford, 1994; John Gerassi, The Premature Antifascists: North American Volunteers in the Spanish Civil War 1936-39, An Oral History, New York, 1986; Arthur H. Landis, The Abraham Lincoln Brigade, New York, 1967. Thanks also to
Alderman Toni Preckwinkle for her assistance in providing information about Mayor Washington's residence.
Letter to the Editor...
We are very grateful to Jim Stronks, author of many outstanding articles which have appeared in this publication, for the delightful and touching letter below:
Dear Edi tor:
I don't know if it is Hyde Park History, exactly, but then isn't almost everything history in some sense? I hope so, because I have read something that I think your readers would find interesting.
In 1895 William Rainey Harper hired a young professor-poet named William Vaughan Moody for the new university on the Midway. And that is where Moody, a bachelor of twenty-seven, lived at first-on the Midway, in the old Del Prado Hotel on 59th Street, where International House stands today.
Late in the afternoon of February 15, 1896, Moody escaped his office for an hour of ice-skating. Later he wrote about it to a friend in a paragraph that reaches across one hundred years to touch us with its humanity.
"DearDan,"Moodybegan."YesterdayIwasskatingonapatchoficeinthepark,underapoverty-strickenskyflyingaragofsunset.Somelittlemuckerswereguyingaslimraw-bonedIrishgirloffifteen,whocircledanddartedunde their banter with complete unconcern. She was in the fledgling stage, all legs and arms, tall and adorably awkward, with a huge hat full of rusty feathers, thin skirts tucked up above spindling ankles, and a gay aplomb and swing in the body that was ravishing. We caught hands in mid
/light, and skated for an hour, almost alone and quite silent, while the rag of a sunset rotted to pieces. I have had few sensations in life that I would exchange for the warmth of her hand through the ragged glove, and the pathetic curve of the half-formed breast where the back of my wrist touched her body. I came away mystically shaken and elate. It is thus the angels converse. She was something absolutely authentic, new, and inexpressible, something which only nature could mix for the heart's intoxication, a compound of ragamuffin, pal, mistress, nun, sister, harlequin, outcast, and bird of God, - with something else bafflingly suffused, something ridiculous and frail and tender."
Fortunately Dan did not throw away the letter, and that young girl is as alive today as she was that afternoon in 1896-because a poet captured her on the head of a pin.
Moody died in 19101 aged 41.
Yours truly, Jim Stronks Iowa City, Iowa
You are cordially invited to attend The Annual Members' Meeting
of
The Hyde Park Historical Society
Saturday, February 21, 1998 'the Quadrangle Club
57th Street & University Avenue
Paul Cornell will speak about his grandfather:
PaulCornell,VisionaryFatherofHydePark
Special Events coming up:
Robie House: Its History and Its Future
Sunday, March 1st, at 2pm HPHS Headquarters
A slide presentation by Jay Champelli, long-time member of the Speakers' Bureau of the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio Foundation.
Join us to learn more about this historical and architectural treasure presently being restored to its former glory here in Hyde Park.
Free Tours of Robie House for Hyde Park Residents
Saturday & Sunday, February 14 & 15
A Valentine event to convey "Heartfelt Thanks to the Community," tours will be offered continuously from 11am to 3:30pm on each day.
Exhibits in the Months Ahead
An exhibit entitled Hyde Park's Hotels: The Golden Age, 1888-1940 will be opening soon at our headquarters. An exhibit on the White City Amusement Park is also planned for later in 1998. Curated by our archivist Stephen Treffman, both exhibits will be accompanied by programs presented by various members of our board. Further information on these and other events will be forthcoming in Hyde Park History and in other commumty sources.
Readers who have photographs, printed materials or other memorabilia related to any of Hyde Park's hotels or to the White City Amusement park are encouraged to write or to leave a message at our headquarters. Our phone number is 773-493-1893.
Newsletters 1980
Volume 2, Number 1 February, 1980
POWHATAN, RANNEY, GERICK GET CORNELL AWARDS
For the Society's annual meeting and dinner on January 19, Thelma Dahlberg and Betty Davey created some entertaining, amusing (and humbling) historical quizzes, members were brought up to date on the status of the headquarters building renovation project, the new officers and committee chairmen were introduced,'and--highlight of the evening!--this year's Paul Cornell Awards were announced. Here they are:
e TO THE POWHATAN COOPERATIVE ASSOCIATION, "for the sensitive return to the spirit of Art Deco in the renovation of this classic apartment build ing [4950 Chicago Beach Drive], re-using old fixtures and restoring old features wherever possible."
Meet our new officers: President--Clyde Watkins
A native Hyde Parker, he was one of the founders of the Hyde Park Historical Society. Until recently director of development for the University, he is now with the public relations firm of Charles Feldstein and Co.
Vice-President--John McDermott. He has lived here for 20 years, is editor and publisher of the Chicago Reporter, heads the National Catholic Council for Interracial Justice
Secretary--Margaret (Mrs. Lloyd) Fallers. A faculty child, she grew up in Hyde Park, later became a fac ulty wife, Lab School teacher, U High Principal. She now heads the University's affirmative action program.
Treasurer--Gary Husted. A com munity resident for 3 1/2 yrs., he owns the elegant old Roberts house in Kenwood. He is an accountant
e TO VICTORIA POST RANNEY, "for
organizing and directing the Com mittee to Save the Rosenwald House, thereby contributing significantly to community awareness of the con tinuing importance of the historic preservation effort."
e TO JOSHUA GERICK, "for construc ting a scale model of the Rosenwald House which received commendation in a city-wide competition of high
school history projects and was dis played at the Ancona School Kenwood House Tour and the 57th St. Art Fair." Joshua has just left Kenwood Academy for the Parsons School of Design in New York.
(Categories and rules for the Paul Cornell Awards were printed in our last Newsletter.)□
CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL WINNERS!
IT'S TIME TO RENEW YOUR MEMBER
SHIP in the HPHS--still only $5.00 per family per year. Send your check, drawn to the Hyde Park Historical Society, to Gerhardt Laves 5553
Kenwood Ave., Chicago, IL 60637.
Early Days at the Lab School and U High
"W.e
She sits relaxed in a living room chair--relaxed Carroll Russell style, that is, which means that her back is straight and her feet are on the floor; dancers don't slump. A trim, small woman with fluffy short hair that is still more blonde than gray, her eyes sparkle as we talk about the Hyde Park she knew as a child.
Born Carroll Adelaide Mason, she lived in the house at 5715 Woodlawn (now Hillel House) which Howard Van Doren Shaw built for her tamily, and kept her pony in a barn at the south east corner of 57th and Woodlawn, (now the site of Meadville-Lombard Theological Seminary).
She had entered kindergarten at the University of Chicago Elementary School in 1904, the year that pioneer of progressive education opened. "I get very excited when I remember it," she says. "We had no strict rules and were as free as birds, yet we were self-disciplined and orderly... We didn't study much spelling or much history but we studied electricity and made a dy namo... There were always chairs in the back of the room for parents
or visiting pedagogues."
In attendance at U High after its merger with the Chicago Manual Training School, she remembers how "we sewed and we cooked--boys and girls both--and hammered and sawed things to give to our mamas for Christmas. I still have some of them."
Next: enrollment in the University of Chicago College and in due course a love affair. Paul (Pete) Russell was a Big Man on Campus--
a star athlete (captain of the foot ball team in 1916), and a Deke. After graduation, he went to work for the Harris Bank and Carroll got a clerical job until "my Peter" saved enough for them to marry.
Harold Swift [see item on p. 7], a fellow Deke but seven years Pete's senior, was already a University trustee. "I remember Harold urging Pete to join the Baptist Church so that he too could be a trustee," Carroll says. "By the 1930's, though, when Pete did become a trustee, one didn't have to be a Baptist."
Harold was Chairman of the Board when Robert M. Hutchins became President of the University. Like William Rainey Harper, Hutchins (in Car roll's opinion) was "a daring, in dependent and creative thinker, especially good at cutting red tape
A very warm friendship developed be tween him and the Russells, and both joined the first Great Books group Hutchins and Mortimer Adler led.
Until Pete's death in the early 1950's, the Russells lived at 49th and Greenwood. Their children went to the Lab School and some attended
S.P.I.A. RECORDS FOUND
In the last issue of the News letter we asked help in locating the records of the South Park Improve ment Association. Thanks to Margaret Walters we now have two photographs
c. 1905, a copy of the 1909 amended by-laws and a number of record books. Alan Barlow also contributed a 1951
list of members and their addresses.□
OUR RESTORATION FUND CONTINUES TO GROW
The goal, remember, was $45,000. We recently received $10,000 from the Field Foundation; earlier, $2500 from the Joyce Founda tion and $250 from Draper and Kramer. Generous individuals con tributed $4625 more. But the largest single arnount--$10,500--came from the Charter Members, each of whom gave $100, (in their own names or to memorialize loved ones); we list them below. We also say a warm "thank you" to all and happily announce that we are within $17,125 of reaching our goal. Renovation of our building at 5529 Lake Park Avenue should be underway by Spring.
Beatrice R. Adams Horace J. Adams Polly Adams
Mr. Adrian Alexander
Mr. and Mrs. A. T. Anderson Anderson Ace Hardware
The Douglas Anderson Family Robert Ashenhurst
W. James Atkins
Roland and Helen Bailey Muriel Beadle
Linda Diann Beeler
Mr. and Mrs. John A. Benade
Mr. and Mrs. Don Topkin Blackiston Robert J. and Alta Blakely
Jean Block
Walter and Natalie Blum
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas J. Boodell, Jr. Mrs. Devereux Bowly
Devereux Bowly, Jr. Jesse and Carol Bradford
Congregation Isaiah Israel Mr. and Mrs. Arthur L. Conn Michael and Kathleen Conzen Mr. and Mrs. Paul A. Cornell
Mr. and Mrs. William F. Crawford Mr. and Mrs. Charles F. Custer Albert and Thelma Dahlberg Kenneth and Marcia Dam
John and Betty Davey Josephine H. Davis Leon and Marian Despres Erl and Mildred Dordal
Anne C. and Allison Dunham Bernard E. Epton
Dr. and Mrs. A. Faller Martha and Stanton Friedberg William Gastineau
Mr. and Mrs. Paul G. Gebhard Louis and Julius Gerstein Ethel and Julian Goldsmith Mrs. Howard Goodman
Harry and Jean Gottlieb
Mr. and Mrs. Chauncy D. Harris Nadine Hild and Richard Hild Mrs. Ruth Horwich
Lester C. and Jean S. Hunt Gary E. Husted
The Hyde Park Cooperative Society The Hyde Park Herald
The Hyde Park Kiwanis Club The Hyde Park YMCA Center Mrs. Ralph C. James
Mr. and Mrs. D. Gale Johnson Mrs. Coleman J. Kelly Winston and Margaret Kennedy Kennedy, Ryan, Monigal and
Associates, Inc.
Mr. and Mrs. Maynard C. Krueger William and Norma Kruskal
Ross Lathrop
Mr. and Mrs. Gerhardt Laves Noble Wishard Lee
Kate and Edward Levi Mrs. Rose Chin Lipson
Philip R. and Dianne C. Luhmann Janet and David Midgley
Mrs. C. Phillip Miller Hans W. Morsbach
Mr. and Mrs. Victor Obenhaus Mr. and Mrs. Richard Orlikoff Dr. and Mrs. Walter L. Palmer Clarence Edward Parmenter and
Jane Parmenter Wilson
Thomas, Georgene and Gigi Pavelec Mrs. Howard R. Peterson
Robert, Rita and Kathleen Picken Louis B. Potter
Mr. and Mrs. James M. Ratcliffe George Edwin Richards and
Grace Buckle Richards
Dr. and Mrs. Henry T. Ricketts Dorothy Ringer
Jack L. Ringer
Mr. and Mrs. C. Roothaan Harriet W. Rylaarsdam
MORE CHARTER MEMBERS
Alice K. Schneider
Frank and Karen Schneider Elena Gould Schorr
Dr. and Mrs. J. Shanley-Brown Mr. and Mrs. Roger D. Shaw Richardson Spofford
Francis and Lorna Straus Mr. and Mrs. H. Strauss
Frances T. and King C. Stutzman Mrs. Gustavus F. Swift
Stephen and Marieanne Thomas William A. Thomas
L. Kristofer Thomsen Richard B. Truitt Patricia D. Walsh Marjorie Wasserman
Clyde and Cheryl Watkins George and Catherine Watkins Marvin H. Watkins
Mary-Ann Wayne
Mr. and Mrs. Warner Wick Milton W. Wright
Times Art Column, Nov. 15, 1979:
Chicago's latest National Histor ic Landmark is St. Thomas the Apostle Church and Convent, 5472 Kimbark Ave. When it was completed in 1925, it was the first American modern-style Cath olic structure.
Its architect, Francis Barry Byrne, was the only apprentice mentioned by name in Frank Lloyd Wright's An Auto biography. "This boy stayed four years and turned out better than many who had many years the start of him in ev ery way."....
Alfonso Ianelli, who designed ab stract sculpture for Wright's Midway Gardens, worked closely with Byrne on terracotta decorations for the building. Inside, Alfeo Faggi created distinguished Stations of the Cross and a Pieta. D
In archival materials from one of the United Church of Hyde Park's predecessor churches, Carol Bradford found these minutes of the Friday Evening Club (men's literary society), February 18, 1895:
The literary program consisted solely of a debate on the ques tion "Resolved that the extension of the right of suffrage to wo men would be advantageous and expedient." Mr. Rugg opened on the affirmative and the secretary in the negative. Miss Helen Russ followed on the affirmative, but the secretary had been unable
to find any lady to assist him on the negative. A pathetic appeal to the ladies present failed to touch their sympathies and the discussion was thrown open to the house. The members of the club rallied nobly to the support of the secretary. Some of their re marks stirred the righteous indignation of the ladies and from that time on the discussion was quite animated. The President was unable to decide the question and had sufficient gallantry to re frain from putting it to a vote.
The club then adjourned and the members and guests remained to indulge in social intercourse and crown the animosities of debate in some of Mrs. Bender's hot chocolate.
J.C. Russ, Secretary
Historic Sites Council Meets in Hyde Park
By Lesley Bloch
The gracious old Windermere was the perfect spot for December's pub lic meeting of the Illinois Histor ic Sites Advisory Council.
There, for two days and a night, members of the Council listened to presentations, viewed carefully cho sen slides and discussed the merits nets and transports money to its balcony cashiers in baskets swung on pulleys. It is hoped that Na tional Landmark designation will prevent demolition of the building and its replacement by the State
Office Building proposed for the North Loop Redevelopment Project.□
of 43 properties in Chicago and elsewhere in the State. While own
ers, lawyers and interested others awaited the final vote, specialists in the history of nails, woods, saws and Illinois testified as expert witnesses to the worthiness of the nominations.
At the morning session I attend ed, there were about 20 people in the audience. Heated discussion centered on the nomination to the National Register by Devereux Bowly (wearing his Landmarks Preservation Council hat) of the Brooks Building at Jackson and Franklin.
The presence of a court reporter and a request by the building's law yer that action be deferred predict ed a continued fight for the life of the Brooks Building. Since National Landmark status means that proposed changes in the property are subject to Federal review--a situation which may work to the disadvantage of the owner--the owner of the Brooks Build ing wanted time to find an architectural historian who would dis credit the building. But the re quest for a delay was denied and the nomination was approved.
So too was the nomination of the Clark and Barlow Hardware Store, which has been located at 123 w.
Lake St. for the past 85 years. In days gone by, it was famous for its showcase windows on the second floor, their displays directed to the passing parade of El riders.Clark and Barlow still dispenses its wares from grand old wood cabinets
NEW OFFICERS
with the legal firm of Hubachek, Kelly, Rauch & Kirby.
Of new chairmen of standing committees, two in particular should be mentioned:
Membership--Gerhardt Laves. It is his home address--5553 Kenwood- that now appears as the return ad dress on this Newsletter and it is to him that your dues should be sent. Born and raised in Hyde Park, he was a civilian employee of the police department until retirement.
Program--Tom Pavelec. A Continental Can Co. research technician specializing in plastics, he has lived in East Hyde Park for 3 1/2 yrs. and is active in St. Thomas parish.
Their outgoing counterparts- Jean Block, Devereux Bowly, Jr., Christine O'Neill, Richardson Spof ford, Betty Davey and Thelma Dahl berg deserve sustained applause
for their performance in office.□
IN 1905, THE S.P.C.A. MUST HAVE COMMENDED THE S.P.I.A.
By Devereux Bowly, Jr.
The Society has installed a gran ite horse trough, dating from about 1905, on the parkway at 1301 E. 57th St. {near Kimbark).
The trough, which has the letters
Still the best buy in town: Membership in the Hyde Park Historical Society--only $5.00 er year, which covers all members o a household.
Send your $5.00 check NOW, drawn to the Hyde Park Historical Society, to Gerhardt Laves, 5553 Kenwood Ave., Chicago 60637.o
SPIA carved in it, was originally in stalled on 57th St. a little east of its present location by the South Park Improvement Association, to serve the many horses in the area.
Last fall, Mrs. E. Hector Coates
The renovation of the Blackstone Branch Library proceeds more or less on schedule.
spotted the t ough_b hin a building The repairs and additions that n 57th St., ide tified it, and brought will make it function better--the i to he atte tion of the Hyde Park tuckpointing, the re-set masonry,
Historical Society. the new furnace, the air-condition-
The owners of the building, long time neighborhood realtors Margaret and Winston Kennedy, donated it to us. We cleaned it and installed it on a new concrete base in front of Staver Booksellers, itself a Hyde Park insti
tution.□
... from p.2 CARROLL RUSSELL
U High and the University. Carroll herself, now a North Sider, has wide interests and many talents. A dancer and actress of near-professional caliber, she was an enthusiastic participant in the Revels and the Faculty Wives shows. She has been a member of University visiting com mittees and many off-campus cultural and civic organizations.
When she had to give up dancing a couple of years ago and sought another mode of personal expression, she decided to attempt a biographi cal account of Harper and Hutchins. Friends urged her to make it a mem
oir of her own long association with the University and its people. She has found it difficult to write in the first person, however, and she still wants to talk with anyone who has anecdotes of Harper or Hutchins to share. Call her at MO 4-6271.D
ing throughout, the new fire alarm and smoke detector system, the new stage lights and other equipment in the auditorium--are in place or soon will be.
Now the focus has shifted to the ornamental details--to restoring the original beauty of the fabric. Items:
► The Tiffany glass dome {the on ly one in the library system outside the downtown Cultural Center) has been cleaned and backlighted.
► A professional marble cutter has been hired to clean all the in terior marble.
► An expert wood refinisher is undertaking the restoration and re waxing or varnishing of the mahog any wainscoting and library stacks.
► In the Circulation room, the handsome old drinking fountain has been reactivated. The solid mahog any Circulation desk has been dis mantled and the wood saved to use in repairing the wainscoting in the Periodical room.
► The mezzanine, believe it or not, is almost all bronze. {Go see
... to p.8
FROM THE WORLD"S FAIR TO URBAN
RENEWAL: what a nostalgia trip!
By Gladys Finn
"Hyde Park History on Show," held at Hyde Park Federal Savings on Sunday Nov. 11, brought such an outpouring of memorabilia that 3 to
5 p.m. was long enough only to glimpse the collection and leave a longing to see or read more. A sampling:
♦ A copy of the Nov. 1, 1893, Daily Inter-Ocean, headlining "The Story of The Midway Plaisance"; tinted lithographs of the World's Colwnbian Exposition; a colored photo of the 57th St. Art Colony and paintings of the same by Emil Armin and Marcella Lewin.
♦ A collection of photographs of the first-generation Swift family, recording reunions, graduations, an niversary parties, and such, which were collected by the youngest of Gustavus Swift's sons, Harold. In an 1899 family group, Harold him self is seen as an adolescent.
♦ A large and fascinating display of 19th and 20th century postcards of the community and the city; the Lab School Correlator of 1928 (when Janet Bowly and Edward Levi were in the graduating class); the Harvard School Review of May 1906 and an alumni re cord of 1880-1905; a handsome photo of the old, and now vanished, Winder mere West Hotel (first in the United States to have telephones in every room) alongside a photo of the Win dermere East ground-breaking.
♦ Exhibits by St. Thomas the A postle Church, by St. Paul and the Re· deemer and by the United Church of Hyde Park. The latter showed regis ters from the Hyde Park Presbyteri- an Church (founded 1860), the Hyde Park Congregational (1885) and the Hyde Park Methodist (1889), all now merged into the United Church.
An old Methodist ledger record ing a survey of neighborhood church preferences put the Presbyterians in the lead. One family responded to the poll, however, by saying that their preference was "nobody's bus iness," and the pollster dutifully reported the comment verbatim.
♦ A scrapbook documenting Hyde Park-Kenwood urban renewal from its inception; the Feb.25,1959,Hyde Park Herald headlining "Clearance Sched ule Imminent" and in lesser type, "750 Families Hit"; a collection of color slides recording decline and fall and rebuilding; sketches by Vi Fogle Uretz and Muriel Van Sweringin of the rows of doors that became the fencing for demolition areas.
For long-time community residents, the afternoon was an emotional as well as an historical event. One vet eran urban renewal activist was over heard to say, "This stuff makes me absolutely teary-eyed."
Among the exhibitors were these donors of historic materials: the Albert Dahlbergs, Alan and Jane Bar low, Bob and Molly Hauck, Eleanor Swift, Ted Anderson, Clyde Watkins, Alta Blakely, the Charles Borsts, Mrs. Lee B. Carrel, Howard Jackson, Herbert Ehrfurth, John McReynolds, Elizabeth Woellner, Anna Gwin Pick ens, Rosalia Isaacs, and Joe Marlin.
Eventually, these donations will be kept at our headquarters build ing. For now, they are stored else where. Thanks to all! D
Mrs. Miller Honored
Florence (Mrs. C. Phillip) Miller has received one of only 24 awards given nationally by the Interior Department's Heritage Conservation and Recreation Service, this for her work on behalf of restoration efforts in Historic Pullman. Mrs. Miller, a long-time Hyde Parker, is a grand
daughter of George M. Pullman.□
SH
L£909 I 'ofiE rqJ
anuaAV poo ua ·s £SSS %
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BLACKSTONE LIBRARY IS REGAINING ITS ORIGINAL BEAUTY
from p.6
for yourself.) It was cleaned by hand, a job that took over three weeks. Now, in the words of Librar ian Emma Kemp, "It looks gorgeous."
► Above the mezzanine, extensive water damage to the plaster (from a formerly leaking roof) has been re paired and awaits the delivery of a casting from a section of the orig inal ceiling molding.
The Oliver D. Grover murals in the Rotunda may be restored later. The mosaic floor below them has been well looked after and is in fine condition. When the renovation is complete, this floor will be the only uncarpeted area in the library, so users will continue to enjoy its beauty.
Mrs. Timothy Blackstone, who gave the building to the city's library system in 1904, would be pleased by the loving care that is being given
to the renewal of this memorial to her husband.□
NEXT ISSUE: A report on the ren ovation of the Children's Wing.
--from notes by Irma Strauss
This Newsletter is published quarterly by the Hyde Park Histor ical Society.
Muriel Beadle, Editor Corinne Seither, Typing
Michael Conzen, Graphics
Volume 2, Number 2 May, 1980
We Publicized Hyde Park and Made Money, Too
By Carol Bradford
The Hyde Park Historical Society was one of over 35 community groups represented at the CITY HOUSE Home Improvement Fair at Navy Pier on March 21, 22, and 23. Our booth featured photographs of historic Hyde Park homes and a grid map of the neighborhood. A variety of merchandise was on sale, including several books on Hyde Park and Chicago houses and architecture, note cards, T-shirts, and buttons. A flyer describing the Society and its
activities was available, and new members were solicited. Gross sales
Art Fair Founder Will
Speak at May Meeting
It's been 32 years since Mary Louise Womer organized the first 57th St. Art Fair, which returns again this year on June 7-8.
Mrs. Womer, now a resident of Valparaiso, Ind., is returning to Hyde Park, too--on Sunday, May 11, when she will share her recollec tions of Art Fair beginnings with members and friends of the Hyde Park Historical Society.
Did you know, for example, that the first 57th St. Art Fair (1948)
--which was also the first outdoor art fair in Chicago--occurred in Oc tober? That 50 artists exhibited?
That, as a group, they sold $500 worth of art and were astonished and thrilled to have done so well?
Since May 11 is Mother's Day and many of you will be dining out at noon, we've scheduled our meeting and program for 3 PM. The place, most appropriately, is the Hyde Park Art Center, 5236 s. Blackstone.
COME! Bring friends!
at the booth for the three days ex ceeded $375.
The purpose of CITY HOUSE, now in its second year, is to stimulate interest in and encourage the main tenance and restoration of the older homes (pre-1940) which make up the majority of Chicago's housing stock. The commercial exhibits at the Fair as well as the programs concentra ted on these purposes.
CITY HOUSE 1980 was a huge suc cess; about 40,000 people attended. Two Hyde Parkers were among those who spoke on relevant topics in the auditorium. Eliza Davey read Jean Block's paper on how to research the history of your home, and Alma Lach spoke on planning a workable kitchen in any kind of space.
* * *
As chairman of the CITY HOUSE Booth Committee for the HPHS, I want to thank all the Society members who worked to make our participa tion enjoyable and successful. Other
committee members were Emma Kemp, who set up the display; Lesley
... to page 2
Headquarters Renovation May Be Done by Fall
NOTE: May 11-18 is National Histor ic Preservation Week. This article is therefore especially apropos.
By Devereux Bowly, Jr.
This spring will see the start of renovation of the 1893 cable car station at 5529 Lake Park Ave., our future headquarters. We purchased the building in 1978 but postponed renovation until funds were raised to do most of the work.
The Hyde Park Historical Society will act as its own general contrac tor. We have engaged the Roy Ander son Company to clean and tuckpoint the exterior, repair interior and exterior foundation walls, and build a new chimney at the location of
the original one.
Robert Wolfe has been chosen to do the carpentry work, which is at least half the total job. A plumber has also been se ected and other tradesmen are being contacted. The major sequences of the work will be:
1) demolition of unusable interior components; 2) masonry repair; 3) rough carpentry;4)plurnbing;5)heat ing; 6) finished carpentry; and 7) furnishing.
Work is expected to be done by October, if our continuing fund raising efforts are successful. We are already gathering furnishings.
IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO DONATE a
rolltop desk, wooden file cabinet, or old office chairs, call Dev Bow ly at 667-2244.
HYDE PARK HOUSE TOUR
The Ancona Montessori School sponsors its second annual house tour on Sunday, May 18. Ten Hyde Park houses will be open to vis itors. Costs: $10. ($5 to senior citizens, students with ID, and children over eight. No children under eight will be admitted un less carried.) Get tickets in advance at the school, or at the Hyde Park Neighborhood Club on May 18 between 1 and 5 PM.
This is one of many programs, tours, lectures, seminars and ex hibits scheduled between May 11 and May 18. For a complete list, call or write Greater Chicago Preservation Week Committee, 407
s. Dearborn, Suite 1705, Chicago
60607. Phone: 922-1742.
CITY HOUSE ... from page 1
Bloch, who assembled the photos; Phyllis Levin, in charge of the merchandising; and Jo Davis, who contacted volunteer workers. My special thanks to all of them.
In addition, the following mem bers of the Society worked at our booth: Gary Husted, Clyde Watkins,
CITY HOUSE was also of special val ue to this Newsletter. In addition to this article, you will find oth ers from the same source on pages 4, 5, 6 and 8.
Troy Baresel, Alta Blakely, John McDermott, Berenece Boehm, Paul and Dorothy Johnson, Marie Anne Thomas, Ann Boldenweck, Jesse Brad ford, Sue Davis, Michael and Kath leen Conzen, Bertha Kokurna, Dev Bowly, Betty Davey, Carol and Bert Benade, Ann Stevens, Adrian Alex ander, and Ken Levin.
Growing Up in Hyde Park Before World War I
"The Lake Was Our Constant Companion"
NOTE: Relative newcomers to Hyde Park may find it hard to believe that our popular former alderman wasn't always as awesomely erudite and politically sophisticated as he is today. But in fact, and as this memoir attests, Len Despres was once a child.
By Leon Despres
We were the first tenants in the beautiful new apartment build ing at 5488 Everett Avenue, built in 1911. When my parents took me at age 3 to inspect our new home,
I was disturbed at the prospect
of living in bare rooms with noth ing but carpenters' sawhorses in them. Somehow, though, while I was stowed with my Aunt Jennie, the familiar furniture was moved
from 4127 Michigan, and my parents, sister and I began four glorious years on Everett Avenue.
The shores of the Lake, which had not yet been filled in, reached as far as the present-day alley be tween Everett and South Shore Dr.
East of our home was open space with a few cottonwoods and, near 55th, the fisherman's shack where Captain Stephenson and his family lived. Captain Stephenson made his living from fish, which were still in good supply. In winter, he let his fellow captains beach their commercial fishing boats on the east side of Everett Avenue. The Lake was our constant companion.
All during the shipping season we heard the ore boats' ever-sounding fog horns, now replaced by radar.
For most of the day, the alley back of our building teemed with the movement and sounds of scissor grinders, umbrella menders, hurdy gurdies, German bands, peddlers, and horse-drawn wagons delivering groceries, milk, ice, coal, and de partment store purchases. The mail
came two or three times a day, de livered by Mr. Alexander Kemp.
A year or so after we moved in, East View Park opened, with only the apartment buildings on its west side. It was so attractive that on summer Sundays there was a guard at each sidewalk gate to block stran gers who wanted to use the East View Park beach. Proudly, I had the right to pass through because my aunt and uncle lived there and took me to their beach, where I learned to swim. They kept a canoe in the basement, which was portaged to
the beach.
Soon my parents enrolled me in Miss Thirza Riggs's kindergarten, and each morning a carriage driven by Mr. Brown came by, picking up children and transporting us to the Chicago Beach Hotel, at about 5050 East End Avenue. I have one of Miss Riggs's bills to my parents, which reads: "Kindergarten tuition (with carriage) for Sept. 24 to Oct. 18, 1912--$8.00."
In the fall of 1913, I entered the primer class of Elmwood School, a private enterprise operated by Miss Annie Fellows. Elmwood School boarders lived in an enormous white house at 5491 Cornell. But the day school was on the second floor at 1643 E. 53rd (where the IVI-IPO re cently concluded a successful elec toral campaign? I was taught to
... to page 5
THE HPHS BOARD OF DIRECTORS
thanks Michael Conzen for his contributions to the appearance of the Newsletter, and welcomes Cameron Poulter, who has taken over the setting of headlines and paste-up. Muriel Beadle continues as editor and Corinne Seither as typist. The Newslet ter is published quarterly.
Absent-Minded Dr. Egan Muddles a Prescription
PANES AND PLEASURES
From the 1916 Transactions of the Illinois State Historical Soci ety and via Jean Block, here's an anecdote about Dr. William B. Egan, the first great Kenwood landowner:
"Although by profession a phy sician, he was more given to real estate than to pills and potions. Once when prescribing for an old lady she asked him, 'How often am I to take this, Doctor?' The doc tor, who at the moment was think ing of his real estate, absently replied, 'Oh, a quarter dpwn. The balance canal time, one, two and three years'--the terms then much in vogue for land deals."
By Paul Johnson
Glass--bevelled, leaded, etched, in medieval rose and in late-Victor ian yellow--illuminated the darkened auditorium at Navy Pier and enchant ed hundreds of viewers at the CITY HOUSE exposition in March.
Displaying dozens of remarkable doors and windows, H. Weber Wilson drew on a lifetime of work in Arch itectural Ecology, leaving minds a glow with images--from the Middle
... to page 6
Sorry It Took So Long, Mrs. Dickey
NOTE: When Hyde Park celebrated its 50th Jubilee, a historical exhibit was created by Alice Manning Dickey. She also wrote the following editorial, which was published in the Hyde Park Herald. The date? September 14, 1939.
"Celebrating a community Jubilee turns one's thoughts back ward, and out of Hyde Park's intensive celebration has been born a vivid interest in our beginnings. Our Historical Exhibit ... is being displayed, through the fine and public-spirited cooper ation of the University of Chicago, in the Reynolds Club, Uni versity Avenue and 57th Street ... People have come forward with
... pictures of the first homes, the first church, the first bank, the first post office, the first school, the first store, with furniture of the period, music books, china, costumes, por traits, all of which should bring us a better understanding of the kind of people who were Hyde Park's ancestors, of the fine neighborly responsible life that was lived here and which be queathed to us a progressive growing community ....
"The spirit which has been aroused during this week of cel ebration and reminiscence we hope may result in the formation of a permanent Hyde Park Historical Society in which.......................................... our
knowledge of ... the first residents of Hyde Park, and of all who have come after to work for fuller opportunities and advantages for all its citizens, may be available to the generations which shall follow us. A Historical Society can take and preserve the picture of each phase of a community's life, commemorating its notable citizens and events ... building up a strong civic in terest and a relationship which should be like that of a big but close-knit family. May it come into permanent being."
Dick and Jane Will Like New Children's Wing
By Lesley Bloch Blackstone Library Renovation Nearing Completion Come summer, a spacious, shelf-lined, yellow-walled, air-conditioned
environment will greet the children of our community when they enter the newly refurbished Blackstone Branch Library.
Although only the deacon benches, display cases and the fine oak paneled ceiling remain from the Children's Wing as we have known it, the renovation has retained a feeling of respect for the architects and their conception of a public building.
AT CITY HOUSE, awards were given for noteworthy restoration or adap tive re-use. In the multi-unit build ing category, The Powhatan (4950 Chicago Beach Dr.) received a Merit Award. The HPHS made the nomination, having already given its Paul Cor nell Award to the same project.
The Children's Collection began in 1904 as a non-circulating one. It was located in what later be came the Periodicals Room. Within its first four years, however, a circulating collection and a read ing club came into being.
In 1939, the Children's Wing was added--thanks to the Public Works
DEPRES ... from page 3 Administration and Charles Hodgdon and Sons, architects. Until 1959,
read there, where others have just been taught to vote for Braun, Cur rie, Dobry and Washington.) Grades from primer to third were in the south room under Miss Ryan, while grades four to eight were in the north room under Miss Fellows.
In February, 1914, I transferred to the "Little Ray" school at 56th and Stony Island, a branch of Ray School now supplanted by Bret Harte. It was a four-room school, built for exhibition at the 1893 World's Fair. Since it was not equipped with buz zers, it gave me my first experi ence with the peals of a school bell. How I wished I might be allowed to ring the recess bell, but that nev er happened. The Little Ray gave
me something far more valuable--my first contact with black children as peers. The 1917 residential seg
regation pattern had not yet been im posed on Chicago, and black families who had settled on Lake Park Avenue sent children to public school.
In 1915 we moved to 5509 Hyde Park Boulevard. I missed Everett Avenue, especially the beautiful winter sun rises that streamed into our sunpar lor from the unobstructed horizon over my Lake.
this existed as a separate facil ity for children, with its own en trance, circulation system and li brary cards.
When the current renovation is finished, old programs such as the Buddy to Buddy Reading Program, Sto ry Hour and Children's Films will
be reactivated. Sharon Gunn, the new Children's Librarian, is in the process of rebuilding the collec tion for pre-schoolers, replacing well-worn favorites and stocking new titles.
Armed with books, plans for community outreach, a variety of pro grams and a modernized facility, Emma Kemp and her staff expect to revitalize the community's faith in the Blackstone Branch and make reading a habit for everyone.
FINALISTS in the Chicago Metro History Fair--a program encouraging high schoolers to do research on fam ily or community history--will be on display at the Public Library Cultural Center from May 14 to 18.
A HARD WAY TO MAKE $100
Betty Davey has been reading
T.W. Goodspeed's History of the Hyde Park Baptist Church.(1924) Here's how they raised some mon ey in 1882:
"Someone suggested we open an ice cream parlor on the lot [northeast corner of Lake Park and 53rd]... A large tent was leased for a month and Mrs.R.R. Donnelley, a member of this church and well known in Baptist circles, agreed to take charge of the enterprise. Every afternoon, excepting 'sun days, for a month, she, with the help of other ladies of the church, attended to this business. Some of the men looked after it evenings. Mrs. Donnelley turned over $100...as the net profits of this business."
Ages to Frank Lloyd Wright's "Mission Modern."
For some, the program was a trip in fantasy to what their own house could become. For others, it was a primary education, as Wilson noted that "jewels" are small circles of intense color; distinguished the rectangular "nee-classical" from the flowing and leafy Art Nouveau; differentiated between true stained glass and "silver-stained" glass; and explained the acid-etching pro cess.
For many, it was a first encoun ter with the neglected history of native American residential glass, from 1860 to 1930. Weber is an au thority on that topic and has writ ten Your Residential Stained Glass, A Practical Guide to Repair and Maintenance. For information about its cost and availability, write Mr. Wilson at 447 E. Catherine St., Chambersburg, PA 17201, or call Chicago's Landmarks Preservation Council at 744-3200.
Beware Synthetic Siding Materials on Old Frame Houses
By Bert Benade
Inasmuch as appreciation of old er styles of architecture is more and more reflected in higher real estate appraisals, it pays to know the effects of using modern syn thetic materials on outside walls.
The following notes are from in formation garnered at CITY HOUSE- much of it from a talk by John My ers of the U.S.Interior Dept., an architect with the Technical Pre servation Services.
Siding or sheathing has been a round a long time. Frame buildings normally used only wood covering and in only two ways: long narrow boards mounted either horizontally or vertically, or shingles over lapped in rows. The shapes of the boards and sringles were chosen to complement the architectural fea tures of Lhe building.
When considering what to do with a frame building more than 30 years old, there are two choices: restor ation or rehabilitation. Restora tion means replacing with exact du plication and no compromise; it is the difficult and expensive way to go. Rehabilitation means fixing up as best you can, keeping your aes thetic sensitivity alert. Without sensitivity you will likely lose some economic value. You will also sense the imbalances introduced by ill-considered changes, even if you can't pinpoint them.
Aluminum, vinyl or other syn thetic materials are often used as siding. These come in many differ ent forms, some trying to copy the
THE CHICAGO ARCHITECTURE FOUNDA
TION (phone 782-1776) offers occa sional Loop tours for children 6 to
12. The inspired title: "Put Your Arms Around a Building."
THE MORE THINGS CHANGE ...
NOTE: Robert Todd Lincoln was the eldest and only son of Abraham Lincoln who lived to adulthood. He was an important man in his own right: a successful Chicago lawyer (he was the "Lincoln" of Isham, Lincoln and Beale) and public servant (U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James) and a millionaire.
Even so, he watched his expenditures carefully--as the letter below makes clear. For permission to quote it, we are indebted to James T. Hickey of the Illinois State Historical Library in Springfield. The letter was dated Nov. 28, 1899, and was writ ten to H.O. Nourse, Superintendent of Chicago's Water Department.
*
My Dear Sir:
I think you know that I have been much annoyed by what I think is a great over-rating of the consumption of water at my house, No. 60 Lake Shore Drive. I have had the matter most care fully gone over. In August last, a leak in the supply pipe be tween the meter and the house was discovered and closed. Since then, although my house until recently has not been occupied, ex cept by a care-taker, my monthly bills indicate a consumption of
... about 100 barrels a day at 50 gallons a barrel. This, of course, is impossible.
This morning I had the plumber come again. He carefully saw that all the faucets in the house were closed and ... observed
the meter for fifteen or twenty minutes, during which time it reg istered no flow. He then, under my supervision, filled a bath tub with water. During this operation, the meter was going vigorously. When the tub was filled and the faucet closed, the meter stopped working. It had registered 47 cubic feet, or 352 1/2 gallons. I then measured the bath tub with a foot rule, and calculated that it contained 6 1/2 cubic feet, or 48 3/4 gallons of water. I then
had the water dipped out ... and it measured in this way 48 gallons. This seems to show clearly that the meter is registering about seven times the amount of water passing through it, and its record cer tainly shows that it has been doing the same good work, at least since August.
I will be obliged if you will send an expert to my house, say tomorrow morning at half past eight, ... to repeat the same ex periment I had made this morning. If a similar result is reached,
I suppose that a new meter should be put in, and that I should be given a rebate on my recent bills....
Yours very truly, ROBERT T. LINCOLN
SYNTHETIC SIDINGS MERELY POSTPONE FINAL DAY OF RECKONING
look of wood. They all have draw backs when applied to frame houses. None should be used to cover weak nesses and bad spots in an existing wall, because the basic problems- though temporarily hidden--remain.
Vinyl sidings get very brittle in cold weather and break easily. Aluminum sidings dent easily and soon look banged up. None of the synthetics are cost-effective in insulation value. If you use a va por barrier just inside the new covering, humidity will wreck the interior walls and allow fungus to grow and rot to develop. The much touted new venting techniques are not effective, especially during the winter.
Guarantees should be gone over with a fine-tooth comb. Who honors them, the dealer or the maker?
Volume 2, Number 3 August, 1980
New Publication Debuts
By Lee H. Morgan
Hyde Park History No. 1, an 84- age paperb und volume of essays and excerpts·from primary source materials, made its_debut at he_57th St. Art Fair in June. It is the work of a HPHS committee consisting of Michael Conzen (chairman), Kathleen Conzen, Rory Shan ey- rown, and Albert Tannler. Its objective--and that of other public ti ns planned for the future--is "to further understanding and appreciation of our community's historical development and present character."
In "Electric Commuting and a Cleaner Hyde Park," Paul Stanford notes that the 1926 electrification of the IC (which eliminated from the air the smoke and cinders belched out by steam engines) in creased real estate values in East Hyde Park as much as 500 percent. By 1928 the average rental was more than $50 per month (as opposed
to the citywide average of $17 per month).
*
In "Hyde Park Versus the Tavern," Damon Darlin introduces the reader to the Hyde Park Protective Association, founded in 1893, its purpose being to get rid of the tav erns that were proliferating in
the community.
The Protective Assn. was canny; it appealed to self-interest rather than morality. It said, "The saloon in residence streets cuts down the market value of our homes [and] en dangers their security. [It] fur nis4e nine-te,pths of the work of our police and justice courts, increases our taxes, is and always has been the center of official corruption."
"HYDE PARK HISTORY NO. l" TELLS OF FIGHT AGAINST TAVERNS; ALSO VOTE ON 1899 ANNEXATION TO CHICAGO
This watchdog group didn't accomplish much more than to contain the taverns within the area on Lake Park between 54th and 56th Streets. There, in the 1920's, a thirsty man could choose among 15 to 20 bars in each block.
Does this have a faintly famil iar ring? It should have, for the South East Chicago Commission [see story elsewhere in this Newsletter]
also took a dim view of taverns. In from Clara Louise Burnham's Sweet Clover: A Romance of the White City (1894). It is part of a long r excerpt, one of several from different sources. Tucked between the essays by Stanford, Darlin, and Markun (all of them recent graduates of the University of Chicago College) these inserts leaven the scholarly prose of the essays.
To order Hyde Park History N
1 by mail, send i:.:1e coupon below, with your check, to our treasurer. If you don't want to cut into the Newsletter, make a facsimile.
To Gary Husted, 4900 Ellis, Chicago, IL 60615
I am enclosing a check for
due course it rid the community of ,drawn to Hyde Park 46 bars.
Historical Society. Please send me copies of Paul Markun's "Village Problems and City Solutions" analyzes the forces at work in 1889, when Hyde Park voted 5-3 for annexation to the city of Chicago.
"Hyde Park" was then composed of 20-odd hamlets under one governmental umbrella. Its area stretched from 39th St. on the north to 138th St. on the south, from State St. on the west to Lake Michiqan on the east. Present-day Hyde Park-Kenwood, then called the Village Center, was a rich suburban enclave, and its res idents voted against annexation.
At opposite social and economic poles were the industrial towns of South Chicago and Grand Crossing, and the agricultural towns of Rose land and Kensington. Hoping they'd get better municipal services if they were part of Chicago, they vo ted overwhelmingly for annexation.
--thereby "placing [the Village Center's] reluctant hand in that of mother city."
*
The phrase in quotes above is
Hyde Park History No. 1 (at
$3.85 to members of the So city, $4.85 to others).
eral Chicago foundations: a $10,000 challenge grant from the Field Foundation of Illinois (payable when we reach our goal), $5,000 from the Joseph and Helen Regenstein Foundation; and $2,500,from the Joyce Foundation.
We are grateful to all supporters of the Hyde Park Historical Society and look forward to celebrating the successful completion of both the fund drive and the renovation project in October. In the meantime, keep an eye on work in progress at 5529 Lake Park Ave.
By Muriel Beadle
"In 1905, all four of us Lowden children had the measles, and I had pneumonia as well. The doctor urged Mother to take us to Lakewood [New Jersey] to recuperate. Lakewood was part resort and part spa; it was fa mous for its pure air. That's where I first saw Dr. Harper. I remember him sitting in a rocking chair on the veranda of a Lakewood hotel, con valescing from his first cancer operation."
The speaker is Florence Lowden Miller {Mrs. C. Phillip Miller), grand daughter of industrialist George M. Pullman, daughter of a Governor of Illinois, wife of a distinguished scientist and physician, and in her own right one of Hyde Park's {and Chicago's) great movers and doers.
Harper
HEADQUARTERS PROGRESS REPORT
Devereux Bowly, Jr. advises: Don't just drive past our head
quarters building at 5529 Lake Park. Walk there, so you can stop and look and appreciate the restoration of the brickwork to its original color, a lovely coppery rose.
When the building was a hash house, its owners painted the exterior fire-engine red, several thick coats of it. To strip the stuff off required 64 man-hours of hand labor. That job was completed in June, as was the tuckpointing and the replacing of several courses of brick.
By the time this Newsletter is printed and delivered, the back and side windows and the new floor will be in place. When the project is completed, the handsome arched win dow frames will still be there, but the sash will be new and the doors will have been rebuilt.
We're anticipating an· official opening in October and.hope that members and friends will help us furnish the place. We'd like to have, as of the 1890's or early 1900's:
. A roll-top desk
. Wooden office files
. Wooden office chairs
. Wood-burning stove
. Drinking fountain
Her reference above to "Dr. Harper" is, of course, to William Rainey Harper, the Univesity's first President, who died in 1906. Now 82, Mrs. Miller has first-hand recollections of all but one of the University's chief executives. Below, from a recent interview, are more memories:
Judson
Eight or nine years after the Lakewood visit, Florence met Harr·y Pratt Judson, Harper's successor and that meeting wasn't in Chica- go either. It occurred at Pullman Island, in the St. Lawrence River, where the Lowdens were vacation ing. {Their home, earlier.on Prai rie Ave. in Chicago, was by 1913 at Sinissippi Farm on the Rock River.)
Bear in mind that Florence's father, Frank 0. Lowden, was about to run for the governorship, and that Judson was a political scien tist. His wife did not accompany him to Pullman Island, which sug gests that Judson's visit was es sentially a "working" holiday.
But there was time for relaxation too. Judson went fishing one day, and Florence kept him company. Their conversation, as was appropriate for a schoolgirl and a professor, centered on geometry. She remembers Judson as a medium-sized man whose sparse hair was almost
MASON WAS "CHARMING," HUTCHINS "INTIMIDATING," KIMPTON "WARM AND KIND"
white and whose mustache drooped over his upper lip "and sometimes had to be puffed out of the way."
The period just before World War I was quite an era. If, like the Lowdens and the Pullmans, one belonged to Mid-America's aristo cracy, life could be sweet. That
summer, the Lowdens rented a house boat which their yacht (manned by a crew of seven) towed on a cruise
around the Rideau Lakes in Ontario. The children lived on the house
rolled in 1929 as a special stu dent. "I found the collegiate life very exciting," she says, remem bering with pleasure the football luncheons that the Hutchinses host ed before the Maroons' home games. (President Hutchins' antipathy to football developed later.)
The Millers were married in 1931 and became Hyde Park householders in 1937. They dined occasionally at the President's House, but Mrs.
Miller was.not as .comfortable in
boat: the adults, including Pres ident Judson, on the yacht.
Burton
Judson served from 1907 to 1923, the second-longest tenure of any of the University's presidents. His successor, Ernest D. Burton, had
one of the shortest terms (1923 to 1925). He was the only president whom Florence never met. That's odd, for her father was a Trustee and she had wide acquaintance in University circles. One of her best friends was Elizabeth Wallace1 who taught French literature.
Mason
Max Mason also had a short term (1925 to 1928). Mrs. Miller remembers him well, for she "fell vic tim to his charm." He was a dynamic man, "alive-looking" and personable; "he made you feel that University life was fun." He charmed the fac ulty too, by approaching any table at the Quadrangle Club with an emp ty place, saying, "I'm Mason. May
I sit here?"
Hutchins
The president with the longest tenure--22 years--was Robert May nard Hutchins, who was 29 when he took office in '29. Florence Low den was not only his contemporary in age but in formal affiliation with the University, for she en-
4
Hutchins' company as she might have wished. "He was an intimidating man," she says. "Always ten jumps ahead of you. He made so many quips you felt you had to keep up with him and you tried to be equally clever
yourself. But no one could match him."
Kimpton
Then, in 1951, Hutchins resigned and Lawrence Kimpton became presi dent. As with Judson and Burton be fore him, Kimpton was a member of the faculty and a sometime adminis trator--and this may be why he did not stir people up as Harper and Hutchins had done. Mrs. Miller was fond of him ("He was a warm person, and kind.") and is one of those who feels that local lore doesn't give Kimpton as much credit as ·is due to him for his role in stabilizing the College and safeguarding the Univer sity and the community through the· urban renewal·project.
*
The presidents who served from 1961 onward are all alive, so this account of Mrs. Miller's recollec tions will end with Kimpton
THIS NEWSLETTER appears quarter ly. We have lost Cameron Poulter1s help with the graphics, but have ac quired the services of Ruth Grodzins. Muriel Beadle continues to edit it and Corinne Seither to type it.
Community Marks End
of Eta as Julian
Levi Leaves SECC
Since 1952, Julian Levi ha been the executive director of the South East Chicago Commission, founded in that year by Hyde Parkers concerned about the deterioration of the neigh borhood. He was a designer of the subsequent urban renewal project and the person most responsible for its success.
Now he has retired from his law professorship at the University (to accept a similar appointment at the Hastings Law School in San Francis co) and from the SECC. His departure is more than Hyde Park's loss. To quote a Hyde Park Herald editorial:
"Levi, one of the most colorful and controversial figures on the public scene, will be sorely missed. He may be one of a dying breed: a man who put his formidable talents and his larger than life personality at the service of the community,
the university and the city without thought of profit."
To pay him homage was the reason for the huge turnout at the SECC's annual dinner on June 9. It would have been impossible to have crammed one more person into Hutchinson Com mons. Among them were city officials, judges, aldermen, leading businessmen
--a significant sampling of Who's Who in Chicago.
A representative of Gov. James Thompson announced that the Governor had proclaimed June 9 "Julian Levi Day" in Illinois. A representative of the Richard J. Daley family read a letter of tribute from the late Mayor's widow. SECC Board member Norman Mac Lean reminisced wittily about the Levi years. Lewis HilL now head of the RTA, claimed Hyde Park as his Second home because of
his former chairmanship of the De partment of Urban Renewal.
The Rev. Arthur Brazier of The Woodlawn Organization, co-recipient with Julian Levi of the 1977 Rockefeller Public Service Award but his bitter foe at one time, spoke
movingly of the growth of their mutual respect and friendship. Bruce Sagan, whose Hyde Park Herald often "fought pitched battles" with Levi, quoted some of his harsher words and symbolically ate them.
In responding to all this, Jul ian Levi charmed the audience with family anecdotes. For example:
"I will never forget Mayor Daley's smile when he recalled that he had learned to swim at old Sinai Community House at 46th and (then) Grand Blvd., when Emil Hirsch [Julian Le vi's grandfather] was the Rabbi. And I was surprised at his knowing that the same Emil Hirsch, as President
of the Chicago Public Library Board, had placed the corner3tone of the building at Randolph and Michigan .'1
Finally, the guest of honor told the crowd that in the late summer of 1952 he and his wife had bought a large trunk in anticipation of
their moving to San Francisco. "That trunk has sat empty for 28 years in a closet on the third floor of our house," he said. "But now t e time has come for it to fulfill its des tiny."
'Twas a grand farewell.
-- Muriel Beadle COMINGS AND GOINGS
After Tom Pavelec resigned as Program Chairman, Thelma Dahlberg and Betty Davey stepped into the breach. Now a new Program Chair man has taken over: Berenece Boehm, known to many of you for her long devotion to the Hyde Park Neigh borhood Club through its Business and Professional Women's Auxili ary. At her office, she1s the Administrative Assistant to the president of Northwest Industries.
5
October showing planned
United Church Finds 1910 Lantern Slides
By Carol Bradford
In early May 1910, the Hyde Park Presbyterian Church observed its 50th anniversary. Numerous special events were planned, among them several his toric addresses which were illustrated with specially-prepared lantern slides. These slides were recently rediscovered in the archives-of the United Church of Hyde Park.
The church is again planning commemorative activities, this time to celebrate its formation in 1930 as a merger of the Presbyterian Church and the University Congregational Church and the 10th anniversary of its merger with the Hyde Park Methodist Church. The 1910 slides will be shown at the church on Saturday, Oct.4, at 10:30 AM and 2:00 PM,along with highlights of the historic ad dresses they originally accompanied.
Both the slides and the talks include valuable information about ev eryday life in early Hyde Park. In the 19th century, churches were centers of village social activities and the Presbyterian Church and St.Paul's Episcopal were the first churches organized here. They shared a s all
wooden chapel located in a grove of oak trees near what is now 53rd and Lake Park.
DO YOU HAVE a friend or neighbor who might like to join the Hyde Park Historical Society and support our activities?
Membership forms are available at the Blackstone Branch Library or from our Membership Chairman, Ger hardt Laves, 5553 Kenwood Avenue, Chicago 60637.
And if you haven't yet sent him your $5.00 dues for 1980, DO IT NOW. Make checks payable to the Hyde Park Historical Society.
6
The Presbyterians met on Sunday mornings for worship service, the Episcopalians in the afternoon. In the winter, each group provided its own supply of wood for the stove.
Legend has it that one cold Sunday the Episcopalians were forced to cancel their service because the Presbyterians had burned all their wood. A mock trial was held later, with a prisoner brought in dragging a log to which he was chained.
Every year on the Fourth of Ju ly, there was a picnic·at the foot of 53rd St., at which the Presbyterian Ladies Aid sold lemonade. Once, when the weather was very hot and the supply of ice ran short, the women took some of the ice used to make ice cream to cool the lemonade. Though they washed the salt off as best they could, the lemonade was salty enough to make every one thirsty. So they sold more lemonade than ever before.
Perhaps it was a twinge of con science that motivated the women to alternate the lemonade sale with the Episcopal ladies in following
years.
*
If you make entries ·on your social calendar two months in advance, jot down Oct. 4, for the historic slide show at the United Church.
Good Show: ''Old House Works''
By Lesley Bloch
To accompany your lunch of a Saturday, there is a half-hour program on Channel 11 at 12:30 called "Old Houseworks" that people interested in do-it-yourself rehabbing might enjoy. The series is produced by the Maryland Center for Public Broadcasting and will be on the air through mid-October.
The host, Bob Callahan--appropriately dressed in work clothes and placed in a dusty "projects to be finished" environment--is very effec tive. He mixes feigned ignorance of remodeling techniques with the knack of asking just the right questions. Here's a summary of one prog am, No.
11 in the series: It began with the questions: Are
there waterproof wood fillers?" and "How do Georgian and Federal archi
A Sharp Man,
Mr. Gray!
Editor's note: Anna (Mrs. Howard) Goodman, when recently sorting fam ily papers, found a manuscript copy of a business history by Bernard Drill. Dated 1939, it is entitled "Herbert Goodman and the Goodman Manufacturing Company." She en joyed this excerpt and so should other HPHS members.
Bear in mind that Herbert Good man was Howard's father; that the "vacant lot" mentioned below is the site of the Robie House; and that Herbert Goodman's house was one of two on the land where McGiffert Hall now stands.
*
"In the autumn and winter of 1906, Herbert Goodman endured an experi ence that demonstrated the extent
of his community spirit.
"The house which he had recent ly purchased from Charles L. Hunter stood adjacent to a vacant lot on the northeast corner of 58th and Woodlawn Ave. In order to protect his purchase, Mr. Goodman had se cured from Mr. Hunter a pledge that no apartment building would ever be erected on the vacant corner lot.
... to page 8
tecture differ?" These inquirles were thoroughly answered, using demonstrations for the first and photo graphs for the second.
Then Bob Calahan was joined by Gil Brooks, a master carpenter, who knocked out a wall in an older home. If this is something you have been thinking about doing and have put off because it is just too much, be reassured. The job is manageable
if done thoughtfully with the right tools, time and patience in your pockets, and an eye out for salvage able remains.
The concluding minutes of the half hour were given over to a discussion of the dangers of lead poi oning. Lead is found in·90 percent of houses built before 1950. Lodged in paint, varnish and putty, it ap pears in the dust surrounding the exterior of a painted house and can fill the air of a room in the pro cess of being sanded.
Symptoms of lead poisoning can be mistaken for the flu or exhaus tion from a job finally done. A test for lead in the blood is the only way of really knowing. So the best approach is to wear a mask, remove all furniture from the room, ven tilate it well, keep pregnant women and young children away, and never eat on the job.
DID GRAY SERIOUSLY INTEND TO BUILD THOSE SHOPS, OR WAS MONEY HIS GOAL?
"Hunter subsequently sold this land to Mr. John M. Gray, of Chi cago, subject to this restriction. Abiding only by the letter of the proscription, Gray decided to build seven small shops on the property. For this purpose the material was delivered and work on foundations was begun.
"Thereupon the whole neighbor hood became aroused, and Gray, if that had not been his original purpose, sensed the opportunity to make a good thing out of his ven ture. To thwart the consummation
of these plans, Herbert Goodman and one of his neighbors, Mr. Charles Mason, finally bought up the property, though at a price consider ably in excess of its real worth.
"He wished that he could take permanent title to the entire vac ant tract next to his own house but, as he wrote to his brother in-law, 'I am hardly yet able to cultivate a neighborhood park for the benefit of myself and the ad jacent property holders.'"
URBS IN HORTO AS OF 1899
In their 1899 Annual Report, the South Parks Commissioners included these notes: "Owing to the increasing demand for great er lawn area for visitors to Washington Park, the territory on which hay is made is reduced somewhat each year, so that this year the crop yielded only 46 tons of hay.
Volume 2, Number 4 November, 1980
WHAT A PARADE! WHAT A DEDICATION!
By Lesley Bloch
The Hyde Park Historical Society/Community Halloween Parade pulled itself together on the chilly afternoon of Oc tober 26, in the vacant lot adjacent to the Mu'rray School, and marched off in more than 30 groups of participants. Cub Scout den flags fluttering, Children's Choir conductor arms flapping, cold coming through the soles of our shoes, and all
a bit out of step, we paraded behind a fine pair of Police De partment horses and officers.
The Spiritual Reader/Advisor on 53rd near Dorchester looked down from her second floor window to see:
oAn elegant lady of yesteryear in a robin's egg blue chif fon gown, white fur cape, sequined and feathered hat, fan dangling;
oThe familiar meat department man from the Coop in real moustache, white hard hat and apron, accompanied by a little girl in face paint and Halloween costume;
oAn assortment of clowns miming, unicycle riding, waving; and a double-decker bus from McCormick Inn;
oThe School of Hard Knocks in academic robes;
oLoose balloons soaring high, others still attached to wrists; oThe UNICEF man clothed in a violet Moroccan caftan,
capped by Uzbekistan, pursed by Greece, beaded by India and an undefined nation;
oDogs-dogs riding backwards on a three-wheeled bike, sauntering along, waiting on a corner to join up with small sheeted ghosts and black plastic caped and masked witches;
oTwo somber antique automobiles, and a marching band; oThe hardiest majorettes ever, in abbreviated white sleeve
less tops and short red-spangled skirts, twirling, stepping high; oAnother lovely lady all in black and beads;
oThe Gilbert and Sullivan Players regal in stature, yet ever so neighborly in reality;
oAII the rest of us bringing up the rear.
Dedication Ceremonies
When the patriotically crepe-papered and ribbon-barred front door of the HPHS Headquarters came in view, the parade made an easy turn at 56th and Lake Park, protected , from auto traffic by three Kenwood Academy Porn Porn girls at the barricade. The crowd soon grew to 400 cold but cheer ful people, moving closer to that proud little building, once again in good shape.
Speeches by Clyde Watkins (in an impressive derby), by Jean Block and by Leon Despres placed this event in the history of the community. Thanks were given to John Vinci, the restoration architect; to Jane Hood of the Illinois Human ities Council, which financed the current exhibit, and to the people who researched it, assembled the material and mounted it [see story p.3] . Greetings were offered to Larry Bloom,
Carol Moseley Braun, Barbara Currie and Alan Dobry-all present and wearing smiles.
A University of Chicago student purposefully wandered through the crowd selecting persons to be part of a class pro ject in-family history, slipping index cards with a phone num ber and "Please call tonight" into chilly hands on their way to the pockets. The popcorn wagon stoked up its fire. The cider was poured. The sales table (mostly HPHS publications) was set up. People said, "Greetings! greetings! ", "Isn't this ex citing?" and "Let's see what they have with the popcorn."
"Much Good Humor"
The ribbon across the building's door was cut. A group photo of the Society's Board of Directors, and whoever else wanted to be included, was taken. Mrs. C. Phillip Miller, in pink, joined the line to view the building and the exhibit. Bill Veeck dropped by. In the sun-filled main room, the paneling looked splendid. The windows sparkled. The ticket seller's cage appeared to be authentic. And the 36-star Ameri can flag looked just right on the south wall.
Authenticity the Keynote
Headquarters Carefully and Lovingly Renovated
By Muriel Beadle
"It's a little jewel", said one participant in the October 26 dedication of our headquarters at 5529 Lake Park Avenue. Indeed it is-and the credit goes primarily to HPHS President Clyde Watkins, who "found" the place, secured it, and headed the fund-raising campaign; and to Board member Devereux Bowly Jr., who acted as general contractor. His insistence upon authenticity of design and excellence of craftsmanship
is everywhere apparent.
An earlier Newsletter reported on the cleaning of the ex terior brickwork. Here now are some notes on the interior of our renovated 1893 cable car station:
About 10,000 linear feet of 4-inch tongue and groove paneling was used on the walls. Because the or.iginal paneling was fir, seldom used now, ours had to be specially ordered. However, pine was used for the trim. It wasn't easy to blend maple and walnut stains so the two woods would match; in fact, Dev says, it took 12 tries. The effort was more than successfu I.
HEAR YE!
Here are announcements of particular importance to Hyde Park Historical Society members:
DUES ARE NOW PAYABLE. The Board of Directors re grets the necessity but must now ask $10 per year. (The rise in cost of mailings and of Newsletter production is primarily responsible.) Your HPHS membership is still a good buy, how ever, since it includes everyone in your family. Send your check, drawn to the Hyde Park Historical Society, to our membership chairman, Gerhardt Laves, 5553 Kenwood Ave., Chicago 60637. And why not give a membership to a friend?
Incidentally, we have used Gerhardt's address rather than that of our headquarters as this Newsletter's return address. Since the headquarters building is staffed only on weekends, there are bound to be delays on forwarded mail.
c)
MAKE A NOTE on your calendar now: Our Annual Din ner meeting is set for January 17, 1981. Full details will be sent to you later.
Some Things Old, Some Things New The new floor (a beauty I) is red oak.
The rear windows, frames and sash, are custom-made re productions of the originals, but the frames of the front win dows were salvageable and only the sash is new. Thermopane was installed, however, and since it weighs more than glass the original sash weights were too light. Therefore, supple mentary weights have been added.
The light fixtures combine wrought iron parts correct for the 1890s but newly made to our order, plus antique white globes purchased locally. An antique dealer also provided the metal grille (from an old post office in Indiana) which divides the ticket office from the waiting room.
The bathroom includes a toilet with a wooden tank, numerous nice old wall fixtures (lovingly repaired by Board member Ted Anderson), and a marble-decked wash basin.
. he furnace is in the attic. It will be turned low, main taining temperatures in the forties, when the building is not in use. Under the same circumstances, the electric hot water heater will be turned off.
Unobtrusive Meters
Because of the historic nature of the building, the Peoples Gas Co. bent its rules and installed its meter in the attic in stead of on the face of the building. Commonwealth Edison, similarly cooperative, installed its meter on the north wall of the building, higher than is usual.
One of the most appropriate touches is the telephone num ber: HY 3-1893.
The building will be open (at least for now) only on Satur days from 10 a.m. to noon, on Sundays from 2 to 4 p.m., and by appointment. To make an appointment, call Emma Kemp at the Blackstone Library 624-0511.
*
P.S. We went a bit over our budget. If you can contribute, or know someone who might, call Clyde Watkins.
WINNERS of the Third Annual Paul Cornell Awards will be announced at that dinner. Nominations are now open, and we hope you will make some. Anyone except a currently serv ing HPHS Board member is eligible. During 1980, he or she must have "significantly furthered knowledge, appreciation or preservation of Hyde Park's historical heritage". ["Hyde Park" is defined as the territory encompassed by the original village.]
Such knowledge, appreciation or preservation may have been fostered by authorship of books or articles; the writing and giving of lectures; the creation of exhibits or student pro jects; the restoration of exterior or interior public spaces of commercial, civic or residential buildings, or of buildings which have been sympathetically renovated and successfully adapted to new uses.
HPHS members are invited to submit short written state ments in support of their nominees. Send statements to our secretary, Mrs. Lloyd Fallers, 5840 Stony Island Ave., Chi cago 60637.
VOLUNTEERS ARE NEEDED to staff our headquarters on Saturdays, 10 a.m. to noon, and Sundays, 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. If you can help, call Mrs. John Davey at Ml 3-5943.
HYDE PARK HISTORY NO. 1 was published in June. Its 84 pages contain articles about the effect of IC electrification on Hyde Park, the community wars against the Demon Rum, and background on the annexation vote of 1889. Included too is amusing material from original sources-for example, Chicago's 1926 parade and pageant of railway progress, at which a Hyde Parker was crowned "Miss Transportation". HYDE PARK HISTORY NO.2 is reviewed on the next page. Why not give both to ex-Hyde Parkers on your Christmas list?
Each booklet is $2.50 and may be ordered from Gary Husted, 4900 S. Ellis Ave., Chicago 60615. Make your check payable to the Hyde Park Historical Society. Or pick up the booklets at our headquarters on a Saturday or Sunday.
EXHIBIT TRACES HYDE PARK'S POLITICAL ROOTS
By Lee H. Morgan
Hyde Park's early residents, detesting and fearing the corruption characteristic of urban government in the mid-1860's, persisted in maintaining a political structure featuring a town meeting, elected trustees, and part-time officials. As the village grew, the work-load became too great and the system broke down.
Even splitting the village into three districts didn't help.
The result? By 1885, as Andrew Yox says, Hyde Park had be come "an overgrown and ungovernable village" which "drifted into its only real political alternative-annexation to Chicago." Yox is the University of Chicago graduate student in his
tory who did the research for Hyde Park Politics, 1861-1919: Suburban Protection and Urban Progress. That's the title for both the current exhibit at HPHS headquarters and of the catalog for that exhibit. The latter is the second of the So ciety's 1980 publications under the series title of Hyde Park History.
From the Chicago Tribune, July 14, 1889-one of over 100 items in the HPHS exhibit, Hyde Park Politics: 1861-1919
Of Boodle and Bosses
Yox's article runs to 40 pages and may be more detailed than all readers would demand, yet it is consistently in teresting and informative. (Do you know what a "boodle fighter" was? The early definition of a "gangster"? Of a "boss"?) The appendix, listing Hyde Park Trustees and Al dermen from 1868 to 1919, makes one realize better than a statement of the bald fact that Hyde Park Village in the 19th century was a very large geographic entity.
(Instructions on how to order a copy of the booklet appear elsewhere in this Newsletter.)
Over 100 Items on Exhibit
The exhibit based on Yox's research· was prepared by a committee headed by Jean Block and·including Kathleen Conzen, Jean Gottlieb and Emma Kemp. It contains about 110 items, some under glass (various early documents col lected by the now-defunct Woodlawn Historical Society and normally stored at the Woodlawn Public Library) and others on burlap-covered panels which hang on the walls of our headquarters building.
The viewer progresses from pictures and mementoes docu menting the early suburban character of Hyde Park Center to the trauma of annexation to Chicago [see story at right]
to the ways in which leading citizens thereafter "brought their suburban concern for honest, efficient and economical govern ment into Chicago's political arena, in an effort to reform the city whose embrace they had been unable to evade."
Memorable Photos Included
Among the memorable photos is one of a young Paul Cornell with the painfully fixed gaze typical of mid-19th century Daguerreotypes; a Jackson Park lawn tennis scene, circa 1900; and an unusual picture of William Rainey Harper at his desk in Cobb Hall. Fascinating too is Charles Merriam's campaign literature addressed to Greeks, Italians and Germans, and to "the colored voter of Chicago."
For this opening exhibit, the Chicago Board of Election Commissioners loaned us an old wooden ballot box. Hanging on the wall above it are ballots on which visitors may vote for or against annexation to Chicago. Although a good many ballots were cast on October 26, the polls will remain open for a few more weeks. Our next Newsletter will report the 1980 outcome of a question originally asked-and answered-in 1889. The vote then, incidentally, was 5212 for annexation, 3357 against.
HYDE PARK TOWN HALL
... which has been the scene of so many noted contests and encounters between the taxeaters and the taxpayers. While nearly all the village officials have fallen in with the march
of progress and recognize the inevitable, there are a few who sulk in their tents and submit with sullen but hopeless pro test. In the acquisition of Hyde Park, Chicago gained a terri tory and people of which any city might well be proud.
The Town of Hyde Park was created and separated from the Town of Lake on March 3, 1861, and the Village of Hyde Park [39th St. to 138th St., State St. to the Lake] was or ganized under its last charter in August, 1872. Enthusiastic and patriotic Hyde-Parkers have for several years claimed that their village was the largest in the world, and the present popu lation of the annexed territory is computed at 75,000....
A TRIP THROUGH HYDE PARK
A trip to Hyde Park is full of interest and novelty to the visitor, who may go by the Cottage Grove avenue cable cars, the swifter moving steam cars, or charter a yacht or small steamer and take a sail along the attractive lake shore and disembark at the old pier at the foot of Fifty-third street, populous always with fishermen and youth who tempt the shiny perch or white herring with a forest of rods and laby rinth of lines and hooks.
Pioneers of Park Design
ECKHART AND JENSEN: A WEST SIDE STORY
By Malcolm Collier
How many South Siders have visited Chicago's great West Side parks: Humboldt, Garfield and Douglas, which lie be tween Sacramento and Crawford Avenues? These parks are connected with the South Side (and with Lincoln Park) by a series of boulevards, some hardly deserving the name but none theless linking the North, West, and South parks in a way the early city fathers envisioned and in a way unique to Chicago.
The boulevards are not the only link between the South and West parks. Although originally surveyed, planned and developed in the 1870s by Chicago's famous architect-engineer, William Le Baron Jenney, the parks were later renewed and somewhat redesigned by Bernard A. Eckhart and Jens Jensen, two men with ties to Hyde Park.
Hyde Park Ties
Eckhart, successful and respected business man and civic leader, funded the University of Chicago's mathematics building, Eckhart Hall. Jensen was a close friend of the Univer sity's professor of botany, Henry C. Cowles and, later, of George Fuller. Although Jensen's landscape work was mainly in the parks and on the North Shore, he did also plan East
End Park and the grounds of the original Chicago Beach Hotel.
Starting as a street sweeper, Jensen began to work for the West Parks in 1886. By 1890 he was superintendent of small but prominent Union Park. By 1894 he was superintendent of large and prominent Humboldt Park. In 1900 he was fired for daring to question the weight of coal delivered to the West Parks greenhouses, an action consistent with his character but a political mistake. He turned then to private practice and soon his reputation was firmly established by jobs under taken for prominent Chicagoans and the best architects of
the Chicago School. 4
In 1905, when Bernard Eckhart became president of the West Chicago Park Board, he found that the bookeeping, landscaping, and reputation of these parks were in such dis array that he managed to secure a $4,000,000 bond issue to set things right. He asked Jensen to take charge. The results were beautiful: the spirit and the intention are visible today despite current neglect and abuse of the park lands.
Jensen's Vision
The new park buildings, lighting fixtures and park fur niture were designed by the city's best architects. In Hum boldt Park, Jensen was able to carry out to the greatest extent his vision of the Midwest landscape in a park setting: a "Prairie" river with its natural flora, a "natural" garden with acres of native plants, masses of hawthorn and other native trees. Later, in 1918, he carried this vision even fur ther in Columbus Park, the one park which he planned from the beginning.
All these parks are well worth a visit. All could use our attention and support.